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#44609 - 05/14/09 02:27 PM #5 Camalot
Doug Online   content
member

Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 174
A recent thread asked about carrying a #3 Camalot at the Gunks - how about jumping up to a #5? I want to bring it along some weekend and use it as much use as possible. Suggestions?

It doesn't need to be essential to the protection of the climb (are there any at the Gunks?), but can anyone recall climbs where it would have been useful? I've heard it is nice to have on Baby. I think it would fit in the crack of the namesake section of Layback.

Routes 5.9 and under preferred, but I'd be interested to hear of harder climbs too - someday I may get the nerve for them.

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#44610 - 05/14/09 02:41 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: Doug]
dalguard Offline
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Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Keyhole
Airy Aria

There's this thing on the right side just past the steel bridge that I think is called Colorful Crack or something like that. Like 5.6 in the guide book but V0 in the bouldering guide book, so be warned.

There are lots of places you could stick one if you were carrying one but those are the routes (plus Baby) where you'll actually be glad to have it.

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#44611 - 05/14/09 02:46 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: dalguard]
Doug Online   content
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Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 174
Thanks. I haven't been on Airy Aria yet so I'll check it out next trip.

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#44612 - 05/14/09 02:59 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: Doug]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I like one on the first pitch of Yellow Ridge, although there is other gear available. On Baby, it brings your gear placement right up to your chest when making the move, rather than at or below your feet. Layback yes. A #4 or #5 at the High E hang brings the gear out right near you. There are plenty of places to throw it in, but most of the time not really needed.

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#44613 - 05/14/09 03:27 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: chip]
phil Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 12/12/01
Posts: 2627
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
The idea of climbing a route just to use a specific piece of protection it really out there... I'm impressed shocked

It seems to me that everytime I buy a new piece of pro... eventually it was needed and I was happy to have it. smile


Edited by phil (05/14/09 03:27 PM)

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#44614 - 05/14/09 03:40 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: phil]
Doug Online   content
member

Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 174
I don't plan on bringing it to the Gunks much, it was more for out west. This will help justify my purchase though and take some of the shine off wink And it is an excuse to talk about actual routes, instead land/cliff access issues.

At the very least, it reminded me that I wanted to check out Airy Aria.

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#44615 - 05/14/09 03:45 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: Doug]
phil Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 12/12/01
Posts: 2627
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Originally Posted By: Doug
I don't plan on bringing it to the Gunks much, it was more for out west. This will help justify my purchase though and take some of the shine off wink And it is an excuse to talk about actual routes, instead land/cliff access issues.

At the very least, it reminded me that I wanted to check out Airy Aria.


I really liked Airy Aria...

and thanks for changing the subject, my brain was starting to melt. smile

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#44617 - 05/14/09 04:00 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: Doug]
tradjunkie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 364
Rusty Jam, a variant start to Trusty Rifle, I think might take a #5. Short and sweet, you can walk off the top of this G-rated miniroute in 30 seconds.
I wonder if you could throw it in somewhere on Betty?
I'm not sure if Baby will take a #5. #4, for sure. I'd be curious to hear for sure one way or the other about a #5.
Is Inverted Layback too big? Probably at the crux, yes, but you could probably put it in somewhere useful.
If nothing else, just having it clanking on your rack will take the shine off. Just carry it up a whole bunch of climbs.
And don't forget toprope anchor options. You could walk along the top of the cliff and toprope whatever climb lies under a #5 placement. That would be a real mystery tour.

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#44619 - 05/14/09 04:48 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: tradjunkie]
Doug Online   content
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Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 174
Come to think of it, I wonder if it would fit on the first pitch of Wrist...

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#44620 - 05/14/09 05:03 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: Doug]
phil Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 12/12/01
Posts: 2627
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Originally Posted By: Doug
Come to think of it, I wonder if it would fit on the first pitch of Wrist...


LOLOL... smile I was thinking of that too...

What came to mind was the undercling on the first pitch of Andrew.

I used a pretty large cam there, but I totally forget was size it was.

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