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#44609 - 05/14/09 02:27 PM #5 Camalot
Doug Offline
member

Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 165
A recent thread asked about carrying a #3 Camalot at the Gunks - how about jumping up to a #5? I want to bring it along some weekend and use it as much use as possible. Suggestions?

It doesn't need to be essential to the protection of the climb (are there any at the Gunks?), but can anyone recall climbs where it would have been useful? I've heard it is nice to have on Baby. I think it would fit in the crack of the namesake section of Layback.

Routes 5.9 and under preferred, but I'd be interested to hear of harder climbs too - someday I may get the nerve for them.

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#44610 - 05/14/09 02:41 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: Doug]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Keyhole
Airy Aria

There's this thing on the right side just past the steel bridge that I think is called Colorful Crack or something like that. Like 5.6 in the guide book but V0 in the bouldering guide book, so be warned.

There are lots of places you could stick one if you were carrying one but those are the routes (plus Baby) where you'll actually be glad to have it.

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#44611 - 05/14/09 02:46 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: dalguard]
Doug Offline
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Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 165
Thanks. I haven't been on Airy Aria yet so I'll check it out next trip.

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#44612 - 05/14/09 02:59 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: Doug]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I like one on the first pitch of Yellow Ridge, although there is other gear available. On Baby, it brings your gear placement right up to your chest when making the move, rather than at or below your feet. Layback yes. A #4 or #5 at the High E hang brings the gear out right near you. There are plenty of places to throw it in, but most of the time not really needed.

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#44613 - 05/14/09 03:27 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: chip]
phil Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 12/12/01
Posts: 2627
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
The idea of climbing a route just to use a specific piece of protection it really out there... I'm impressed shocked

It seems to me that everytime I buy a new piece of pro... eventually it was needed and I was happy to have it. smile


Edited by phil (05/14/09 03:27 PM)

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#44614 - 05/14/09 03:40 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: phil]
Doug Offline
member

Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 165
I don't plan on bringing it to the Gunks much, it was more for out west. This will help justify my purchase though and take some of the shine off wink And it is an excuse to talk about actual routes, instead land/cliff access issues.

At the very least, it reminded me that I wanted to check out Airy Aria.

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#44615 - 05/14/09 03:45 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: Doug]
phil Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 12/12/01
Posts: 2627
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Originally Posted By: Doug
I don't plan on bringing it to the Gunks much, it was more for out west. This will help justify my purchase though and take some of the shine off wink And it is an excuse to talk about actual routes, instead land/cliff access issues.

At the very least, it reminded me that I wanted to check out Airy Aria.


I really liked Airy Aria...

and thanks for changing the subject, my brain was starting to melt. smile

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#44617 - 05/14/09 04:00 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: Doug]
tradjunkie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 359
Rusty Jam, a variant start to Trusty Rifle, I think might take a #5. Short and sweet, you can walk off the top of this G-rated miniroute in 30 seconds.
I wonder if you could throw it in somewhere on Betty?
I'm not sure if Baby will take a #5. #4, for sure. I'd be curious to hear for sure one way or the other about a #5.
Is Inverted Layback too big? Probably at the crux, yes, but you could probably put it in somewhere useful.
If nothing else, just having it clanking on your rack will take the shine off. Just carry it up a whole bunch of climbs.
And don't forget toprope anchor options. You could walk along the top of the cliff and toprope whatever climb lies under a #5 placement. That would be a real mystery tour.

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#44619 - 05/14/09 04:48 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: tradjunkie]
Doug Offline
member

Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 165
Come to think of it, I wonder if it would fit on the first pitch of Wrist...

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#44620 - 05/14/09 05:03 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: Doug]
phil Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 12/12/01
Posts: 2627
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Originally Posted By: Doug
Come to think of it, I wonder if it would fit on the first pitch of Wrist...


LOLOL... smile I was thinking of that too...

What came to mind was the undercling on the first pitch of Andrew.

I used a pretty large cam there, but I totally forget was size it was.

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#44622 - 05/14/09 05:26 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: tradjunkie]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I'll bet lots of climbs that follow cracks and corners have sections wide enough to place that thing. Since most of us don't carry anything that big, we don't even notice the placement opportunities.

Free association suggests the offwidth on Inverted Layback, the flake before the final overhang on the second pitch of Fat Stick Direct, near or above the sometimes-slung chockstone high on Double Crack, before the ceiling, perhaps on the right, on Bonnie's Roof, somewhere on Ventre de Boeuf and Last Frontier, low on the first pitch of Erect Direction, maybe on the corner on the left at the start of the second pitch crux of ED, and maybe also up in the horizontals above the roof on the third pitch of ED, up in the alcove before the slab traversing right on Boldville, the big flake high on the first pitch of Limelight, the short crack at the start of Proctoscope, in the flake leading up to Triangle, somewhere in the corner above the crux of Pink Laurel, etc. etc.

I could be wrong about lots of these; for the most part I'm recalling spots too big to hand jam. But just take the thing and you'll find places to get rid of it.

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#44637 - 05/14/09 07:39 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: rg@ofmc]
tradjunkie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 359
Maybe you should carry two and see if you can place both on every pitch.

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#44654 - 05/14/09 10:50 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: tradjunkie]
jdw Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/25/01
Posts: 219
Loc: Connecticut
Originally Posted By: tradjunkie
Rusty Jam, a variant start to Trusty Rifle, I think might take a #5. Short and sweet, you can walk off the top of this G-rated miniroute in 30 seconds.
I wonder if you could throw it in somewhere on Betty?
I'm not sure if Baby will take a #5. #4, for sure. I'd be curious to hear for sure one way or the other about a #5.
Is Inverted Layback too big? Probably at the crux, yes, but you could probably put it in somewhere useful.
If nothing else, just having it clanking on your rack will take the shine off. Just carry it up a whole bunch of climbs.
And don't forget toprope anchor options. You could walk along the top of the cliff and toprope whatever climb lies under a #5 placement. That would be a real mystery tour.


I have a friend who enjoys using his BD #6 on Baby - so, yes, it will fit.

JDW

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#44685 - 05/15/09 02:06 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: jdw]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Yes, I've placed it on the first pitch of Wrist.

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#44689 - 05/15/09 03:16 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: chip]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
I've always been told Inverted Layback was too big for a #5 but I haven't taken one up there to prove it. I can get a knee in there, so it's pretty big.

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#44691 - 05/15/09 03:32 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: dalguard]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
There's a couple little wires or cams that go up in a smaller crack within the offwidth.

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#44877 - 05/22/09 04:56 AM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: Doug]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
The problem with wide gear is that you may be tempted to try monstrosities like this:

[From this thread at the taco stand.]
_________________________
- Marc

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#44878 - 05/22/09 12:14 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: MarcC]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
The true pleasure in a crack like that is in feeling all the sand particles breaking loose with every movement under all points of pressure as you keep trying to swim upstream against the flow. Makes me want to jump right in.

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#44902 - 05/22/09 09:12 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: chip]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
I once saw someone going up Easy Keyhole with at least a double set of cams up to the #5 and at least 2 big bros along with backpacks and walkie talkies....shortly there-after one of the walkie talkies came back down from above and almost took out the belayer....

Route for a possible big piece...Invitation to Hell...I think there used to be a pin at the 5.10+ crux which is now gone?

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#44905 - 05/22/09 09:55 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: BobbyS]
LarE Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/16/08
Posts: 45
I seem to recall One Size Fits All taking a #5 (and a #4) nicely. As a matter of fact, I think I'd be fairly terrified to try that route again without the big aluminum umbrellas clipped to the left side of my harness...

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#44906 - 05/22/09 09:59 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: LarE]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Bobby...that was probably me you saw out there on Easy Keyhole. I love going overboard sometimes!!! And LarE....we're not allowed supposedly to discuss that route on here!!! go talk to JGreene about it!

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#44908 - 05/23/09 12:18 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: RangerRob]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Keyhole, not Easy Keyhole.

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#44914 - 05/24/09 06:32 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: LarE]
Leemouse2 Offline
addict

Registered: 05/08/00
Posts: 459
Loc: Rosendale, NY
Well, it's at Peterskill, but Slot Machine (just to the left of Golden Dream) would easily take a #5.
_________________________
It's hard to be brave when you're a chicken.

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#44921 - 05/25/09 02:48 AM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: Leemouse2]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
It was not you Ranger Rob....the ascent I watched was of the 5.2....Easy Keyhole....

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#44937 - 05/26/09 03:15 AM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: BobbyS]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I was being farsical

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