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#44622 - 05/14/09 05:26 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: tradjunkie]
rg@ofmc Offline

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I'll bet lots of climbs that follow cracks and corners have sections wide enough to place that thing. Since most of us don't carry anything that big, we don't even notice the placement opportunities.

Free association suggests the offwidth on Inverted Layback, the flake before the final overhang on the second pitch of Fat Stick Direct, near or above the sometimes-slung chockstone high on Double Crack, before the ceiling, perhaps on the right, on Bonnie's Roof, somewhere on Ventre de Boeuf and Last Frontier, low on the first pitch of Erect Direction, maybe on the corner on the left at the start of the second pitch crux of ED, and maybe also up in the horizontals above the roof on the third pitch of ED, up in the alcove before the slab traversing right on Boldville, the big flake high on the first pitch of Limelight, the short crack at the start of Proctoscope, in the flake leading up to Triangle, somewhere in the corner above the crux of Pink Laurel, etc. etc.

I could be wrong about lots of these; for the most part I'm recalling spots too big to hand jam. But just take the thing and you'll find places to get rid of it.

#44637 - 05/14/09 07:39 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: rg@ofmc]
tradjunkie Offline

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 365
Maybe you should carry two and see if you can place both on every pitch.

#44654 - 05/14/09 10:50 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: tradjunkie]
jdw Offline

Registered: 03/25/01
Posts: 219
Loc: Connecticut
Originally Posted By: tradjunkie
Rusty Jam, a variant start to Trusty Rifle, I think might take a #5. Short and sweet, you can walk off the top of this G-rated miniroute in 30 seconds.
I wonder if you could throw it in somewhere on Betty?
I'm not sure if Baby will take a #5. #4, for sure. I'd be curious to hear for sure one way or the other about a #5.
Is Inverted Layback too big? Probably at the crux, yes, but you could probably put it in somewhere useful.
If nothing else, just having it clanking on your rack will take the shine off. Just carry it up a whole bunch of climbs.
And don't forget toprope anchor options. You could walk along the top of the cliff and toprope whatever climb lies under a #5 placement. That would be a real mystery tour.

I have a friend who enjoys using his BD #6 on Baby - so, yes, it will fit.


#44685 - 05/15/09 02:06 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: jdw]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2679
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Yes, I've placed it on the first pitch of Wrist.

#44689 - 05/15/09 03:16 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: chip]
dalguard Offline

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
I've always been told Inverted Layback was too big for a #5 but I haven't taken one up there to prove it. I can get a knee in there, so it's pretty big.

#44691 - 05/15/09 03:32 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: dalguard]
pedestrian Offline

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
There's a couple little wires or cams that go up in a smaller crack within the offwidth.

#44877 - 05/22/09 04:56 AM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: Doug]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
The problem with wide gear is that you may be tempted to try monstrosities like this:

[From this thread at the taco stand.]
- Marc

#44878 - 05/22/09 12:14 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: MarcC]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2679
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
The true pleasure in a crack like that is in feeling all the sand particles breaking loose with every movement under all points of pressure as you keep trying to swim upstream against the flow. Makes me want to jump right in.

#44902 - 05/22/09 09:12 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: chip]
BobbyS Offline

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
I once saw someone going up Easy Keyhole with at least a double set of cams up to the #5 and at least 2 big bros along with backpacks and walkie talkies....shortly there-after one of the walkie talkies came back down from above and almost took out the belayer....

Route for a possible big piece...Invitation to Hell...I think there used to be a pin at the 5.10+ crux which is now gone?

#44905 - 05/22/09 09:55 PM Re: #5 Camalot [Re: BobbyS]
LarE Offline

Registered: 10/16/08
Posts: 45
I seem to recall One Size Fits All taking a #5 (and a #4) nicely. As a matter of fact, I think I'd be fairly terrified to try that route again without the big aluminum umbrellas clipped to the left side of my harness...

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