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#34383 - 11/14/07 05:33 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: rg@ofmc]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
RG has it right. Fritz's adventurous spirit comes through loudly when you consider the details of climbing on that day.

What I've wondered about is how he and his party got to the base of the climb. Presumably he didn't have the beta about rapping in from the pine tree! Anyone actually know? (As opposed to "Guess the Approach".)

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#34384 - 11/14/07 05:47 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Frank Florence]
talus Offline
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Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
Frank I posted in a previous post.

here it is again

Fritz on the FA traversed in from the left side of Millbrook along the ledge to the start of Old route.

Thank you RG
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#34385 - 11/14/07 06:51 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: talus]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Back in the day, there was a homeowner who let us walk up a dirt road on his property toward the cliff. The dirt road ended at a stream, which one followed to a steep slope leading to the boulder field. This approach took you to the right side of the cliff, and if that's the way Fritz went, He probably would have traversed the boulder field, looking for a route he wanted to do, and ending up at the left end, did the Old Route.

It is also quite possible that he climbed up the power line cut (if it was there in 1935) and traversed over to the left side of Millbrook. No doubt there is an account in Appalachia around 1935, if anyone has a library with those volumes.

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#34386 - 11/14/07 08:05 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Julie]
jnickel Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/14/07
Posts: 6
Regarding Julie's post of 8/25/7: the first pitch of Werk Supp on the Bastille.

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#34389 - 11/14/07 09:51 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: rg@ofmc]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
Thanks for that info, RG. If anyone has access to Appalachia from that time, let me know, please.

Talus, I shouldn't have put in the glib comment about the rap tree. What I was really getting at is what RG added, an idea of the approach that let Fritz consider where a possible route might go. The few times I've been to Millbrook I've found it hard to get a sense of what's in store above me and have relied completely on a guide book to select lines. I'd imagine that approaching from the boulders below lets the climber see some of the cliff's features better than walking along the ledge.

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#34401 - 11/15/07 03:38 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Frank Florence]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
This is Dave Leahy who I think gets more pumped about getting up early in the morning to do route at a far away cliff than I do. In fact I know he was having more fun than I this day, being that I wanted to climb so bad instead of taking photos for you all to see.
If you need a guide Dave works for http://www.high-xposure.com

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#34408 - 11/15/07 06:13 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: talus]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Happiness is a 110 degree wall

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#34412 - 11/15/07 07:46 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Smike]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
no sir
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#34418 - 11/15/07 09:03 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: talus]
socialist1 Online   content
member

Registered: 08/05/04
Posts: 147
Loc: New Brunswick, NJ
Nector Vector

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#34419 - 11/15/07 09:33 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: socialist1]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
no
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