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#58158 - 06/23/11 02:47 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: RangerRob]
Rickster Online   content
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 848
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Not Infinite Space.

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#58165 - 06/23/11 04:37 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: Rickster]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2471
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Just joined in...looks rather like TZ.

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#58166 - 06/23/11 11:04 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: rg@ofmc]
Rickster Online   content
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 848
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
RG is on his game, Twilight Zone. An early '77 exploratory. Kevin popped from here. Sandy Stewart finally worked out the next move, but no further.

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#58218 - 06/24/11 07:56 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Rickster]
curmudgeon Offline
addict

Registered: 10/27/10
Posts: 466
What route is this shadowy figure on?


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#58219 - 06/24/11 08:13 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: curmudgeon]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Open Cockpit

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#58220 - 06/24/11 08:16 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Dana]
curmudgeon Offline
addict

Registered: 10/27/10
Posts: 466
Yes, curmudgeon on Open Chalkpit.



Edited by curmudgeon (06/24/11 08:22 PM)

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#58223 - 06/25/11 01:30 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: curmudgeon]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Rockin the Fires! Nice shot.

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#58226 - 06/25/11 05:03 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: chip]
TARGHEE Offline
newbie

Registered: 06/30/00
Posts: 48
Loc: NYC
Hi Rickster, amazing shots of TZ. That Russ freed it in 1995 is commonly known; any other tidbits from you or Curmugeon of other efforts from Kevin's era? 20 years of tries to complete a route must have some interesting moments. The closest I got to this piece of rock was Traverse of the Clods in 1995. From the hanging belay one could get a sense of what TZ must involve...not for the faint of heart. Many thanks,

MP

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#58228 - 06/25/11 07:45 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: TARGHEE]
Rickster Online   content
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 848
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
On the day of the photo, there was a crew of four awaiting their turns at the tight end. Sandy Stewart, Mike Sawicky, Ivan Rezucha and just for laughs, myself. My real job was to toss the extra rope out to the leader who would eventually end up swinging in space. On one attempt followed by a fall/swing, Kevin had us lower him off some to a point further down the wall beneath the height of the belay. At this point he started working out moves that would lead directly up to the base of the exit crack at the left end of the initial traverse. I've an unscanned slide of him working that wall trying to find an alternate.
Other than that day, I've not returned to the route as it was way, way, way beyond my abilities, and have no further info other than one would get from the guidebook. Climbing changed dramatically of course between 1977 and 1993, so it wasn't really a surprise to hear of the FFA. Bold and difficult stuff.
I found the move out of the chimney one of the most committing and scary things I'd ever done on a climb. I made the initial move than jumped the hell off and took the swing out just to get rid of the jitters. Gave it another try and passed the rope back to more qualified folks.

Here's Mike a few years earlier doing what was probably the first all nut ascent.. solo. No fixed pins, all gear clean. He developed quite an affinity for the climb during those years.

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#58229 - 06/25/11 07:52 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Rickster]
Rickster Online   content
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 848
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Moving onward or maybe upward. Here's Rich Romano in 1981 on .........
Notice closely the move is protected with a Chouinard Crack'n Up. Or, "crack me up".

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