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#44853 - 05/21/09 08:33 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: adatesman]
adatesman Offline
member

Registered: 07/13/05
Posts: 102
Loc: Philadelphia
Oh, the address is Aric Datesman, 47 Prospect Ave, Norristown PA 19403.

Anything I break gets the usual writeup on RC, if it gets sent to a lab it gets whatever who organizes it arranges.

-aric.

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#44857 - 05/21/09 08:53 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: ianmanger]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Funny,

I've never had that issue and on this climb I use only 6 green C3 (equivelent to a blue alien) to protect the first pitch (pic was from when Lisa led the .12a P1 and she did place two blue aliens down low and the rest were green C3's)

http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/463299.JPG

and on this one I place a grey 000 C3 and a purple 00 C3 at the crux

http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/404797.JPG

and I think they are better then anything I've used to date.


But that whole discussion is off subject.

Aric; I'll send you the cams tomorrow for testing or if someone else decides to do large scale testing.


Edited by Chas (05/21/09 09:04 PM)

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#44859 - 05/21/09 09:04 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: Chas]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2677
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Hmm. Purple and grey C3s are the crux pro in sandstone? Yikes. You should be smilin' at the camera under those cicumstances. I love 'em when you get to that small a placement but wouldn't want to whip on those if I didn't have to.

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#44863 - 05/21/09 09:24 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: chip]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Originally Posted By: chip
Hmm. Purple and grey C3s are the crux pro in sandstone? Yikes. You should be smilin' at the camera under those cicumstances. I love 'em when you get to that small a placement but wouldn't want to whip on those if I didn't have to.


Th photo is actually of Kyle onsight pinkpointing it on gear that I had placeed on my attempt, but he came back two days later to lead it cleanly to get the second ascent. You end up placing the two pieces (the 00 and the 000) right next to each other (just below his feet in the picture). The next piece is at arms reach from where he is ( a blue 0.3 C4)


Edited by Chas (05/21/09 09:24 PM)

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#44864 - 05/21/09 09:25 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: Chas]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Originally Posted By: Chas
... I place a grey 000 C3 and a purple 00 C3 at the crux

http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/404797.JPG

Totally off topic but....does that climb go through the fugly roof-slot thing or does the pitch mercifully end somewhere under the roof?

Edit to add: Oh, wait! Just did the zoom on the pic and now I see the pair of bolts up under the roof just right of the crack system.
_________________________
- Marc

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#44866 - 05/21/09 09:57 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: MarcC]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Originally Posted By: MarcC
Originally Posted By: Chas
... I place a grey 000 C3 and a purple 00 C3 at the crux

http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/404797.JPG

Totally off topic but....does that climb go through the fugly roof-slot thing or does the pitch mercifully end somewhere under the roof?

Edit to add: Oh, wait! Just did the zoom on the pic and now I see the pair of bolts up under the roof just right of the crack system.


Extending the off-subject thoughts: Yup, you are right. It ends just under the roof, but I'm hoping to push it through the roof via the slot and then onto the face. The slot going through the roof is actually a finger crack opening into a slot. Talking with others in town, and they have the same idea also.

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#44867 - 05/21/09 10:39 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: Chas]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I just took 4 10'+ rippers on my red alien yesterday out at Lost City. That baby is solid!!! You can have my Aliens when you pry them from my cold stiff hands. Of course when it comes to time to replace those sizes there ain't no way I'm going to buy Aliens unless they start doing some serious qualithy control overhaul.Zq

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#44871 - 05/21/09 11:34 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: RangerRob]
AOR Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/27/04
Posts: 392
Oh my gosh...I hate to say this, but among some "newer" cams, I still have rigid Friends on my rack. And, I use them! laugh

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#44876 - 05/22/09 04:48 AM Re: More Alien failures [Re: AOR]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
Thread drift, but WTH.
Quote:
I still have rigid Friends on my rack


Perfectly good gear. I throw mine back on my rack when I need doubles in mid and larger sizes for long vertical cracks. But nowadays there are a variety of good cams that work for those conditions. Fewer decent options exist down in the small sizes where Aliens are appealing. I guess I hang on to the rigid stems so I can put my coin to use buying pricey C3s.

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#44885 - 05/22/09 02:27 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: RangerRob]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
I just took 4 10'+ rippers on my red alien yesterday out at Lost City. That baby is solid!!! You can have my Aliens when you pry them from my cold stiff hands. Of course when it comes to time to replace those sizes there ain't no way I'm going to buy Aliens unless they start doing some serious qualithy control overhaul.Zq


Amen to all of that. Question, is, when is it ACTUALLY time? I got my Camelots and Metolius cams reslung and some rewires back in March. I keep adding stuff but some of it is years old...

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