Shout Box

Who's Online
0 registered (), 6 Guests and 1 Spider online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 9 of 13 < 1 2 ... 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 >
Topic Options
#45529 - 06/09/09 06:35 PM Re: Time for e climbing ethics debate [Re: Chas]
Dillbag Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/02/06
Posts: 1130
Loc: "The Town"
Right, but it's also part of the underlying codus of climbing...
_________________________
...anethum graveolens cucumis sativus!

Top
#45530 - 06/09/09 06:45 PM Re: Time for e climbing ethics debate [Re: Dillbag]
Timbo Offline
addict

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 694
Loc: Delaware
Apparently gear thieves are not limited to the Northeast, nor to gear left on routes.

http://www.newriverrendezvous.com/09highlights.html

Scroll down to the bottom.

TS
_________________________

Top
#45542 - 06/09/09 08:47 PM Re: Time for e climbing ethics debate [Re: Timbo]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: Timbo
Apparently gear thieves are not limited to the Northeast, nor to gear left on routes.

http://www.newriverrendezvous.com/09highlights.html

Scroll down to the bottom.

TS


From the above linked newsletter:
"Stealing is bad enough and stealing from your own tribe is way beyond despicable."

Right...so it's not as bad if you rip off vacationing New Yorkers??!! WTF?

Top
#45546 - 06/09/09 08:51 PM Re: Time for e climbing ethics debate [Re: Timbo]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2082
Loc: SoCal
Huh. I looked up "ethics" in several dictionaries, but never found anything where it said those who considered themselves better than others, could redefine the term at their convenience.

It did say something about treating others as you'd like to be treated. Which, like I said before, has a lot more to do with gestures and how you symbolize your respect for other people.

Which is to say that, leaving gear up on a 5.12 is a SYMBOL to anyone passing by, that you'd leave your gear up on whatever route you damn well please, because you're so awesome and everyone should bow to you, and you couldn't give a crap about what anyone else thinks.

Or am I just being sarcastic? Or, "ironical"? Who knows?

Top
#45563 - 06/09/09 10:11 PM Re: Time for e climbing ethics debate [Re: Julie]
LarE Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/16/08
Posts: 45
Hmm. Seems to me there's two issues going on here: a) When is it appropriate to leave your gear fixed on a gunks route? Answer: almost never, accident/injury barred. b) When is it appropriate to take gear that has been left fixed on a gunks route? Answer: Open to debate, but as for me: do unto others...

There was a ton of fixed gear on Spinal Traction last time I hiked (the long way) down that way. I wonder how that particular project is going? Me, I can't IMAGINE trying to free that route! Good times...

Top
#45567 - 06/09/09 10:47 PM Re: Time for e climbing ethics debate [Re: LarE]
RangerRob Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I would consider that a project LarE, and I would not clean it. I'm sure the owners woudn't mind me swinging and ripping on their gear though, right?

Top
#45610 - 06/10/09 03:38 PM Re: Time for e climbing ethics debate [Re: Chas]
camhead Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/04/09
Posts: 10
Originally Posted By: Chas
camhead: actually I used to live in NYC and climb in the Gunks (only 12yrs tho) but have lived out west for the last 10yrs. I get pissed off if people leave gear on a route. I find it rarely happens for more then a short time, but if it is for a few hours, come'n..... do the route and move on.

There are times when I am working a route, ie: the .13's at Indian Creek, when I may take several burns, but whenever I meet other climbers, I usually ask their intention, letting them know that I'll gladly move my stuff if they want the route (but usually find they just want to see someone whip on the route). The older I get the more I find that routes that are projects for me, may be merely warmup for someone else.

Even though the ethics are first come first serve, I find being considerate of others goes a long way.


hey Chas,

I agree with you whole-heartedly. I would not leave fixed gear on any trad route which I was working, especially not at a popular and well-traveled crag. However, like I said (and as many of the armchair ethicists here are ignoring), the fixed stoppers were not mine. As mentioned before, I saw no difference between leaving my draws on KC and leaving them on a sport route; the style was/ will be identical until the stoppers are removed!

That said, right on for living in Flagstaff; that is the nicest town for climbing that I've come across. We should meet up at the Forks next time I'm out!

Top
#45643 - 06/10/09 06:59 PM Re: Time for e climbing ethics debate [Re: camhead]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
next time you are out my way. Look me up. Also you should check out this down in Sedona http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/463191.jpg. Some of the best climbing I've done. Rivals anything at IC and is coming close to Moonlight Buttress free.

Top
#45658 - 06/10/09 11:03 PM Re: Time for e climbing ethics debate [Re: Chas]
RangerRob Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
For what it's worth, I went up Kansas City today to try to clean those fixed nuts out of the roof. I only succeeded in cleaning the first one. The next two are buried deep enough that I couldn't even see the head. The last should theoretically come out, but it defied my my 20 minute struggle. I even brought a hammer up with me.

RR

Top
#45770 - 06/12/09 04:30 PM Re: Time for e climbing ethics debate [Re: RangerRob]
granite_grrl Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/09/07
Posts: 4
Loc: St. Catharines, Ontario
I swa a blue sling on something up there last night when I went for a walk. It's odd 'cause I wan't really ecpecting to see anything because the fixed wires are difficult to spy from the ground. But there was certainly something blue up there.

It seemed pretty low on the meat of the route, it wasn't there the weekend that camhead was working the route. New gear?

I'll probobly take another walk out that way tonight. I'm curious what I'll see.

Top
Page 9 of 13 < 1 2 ... 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 >


Moderator:  webmaster 
Sponsored