It's the step left and up at the top of the corner, where it fades away and the crack pinches out.

You're out of the loop. That's NYslacker now.

Marc, I always thought that was the crux move. To me, the spicy 5.8 move is the boulder move above the flake, and after the crux. Short bulging wall with gear at your feet. Two or three moves with crappy feet and hands on slopers. That's just my recollection of course.

RR

Rob, I've followed it that way but when I led it, I took the easier exit to the left, which I've been led to believe is the original route. If you step to the left several moves, go up when it gets obviously easier, and then back right, there's no more hard climbing. You do get a bit run out that way but it's never seemed like 5.8. Like I said, I've never led straight up so I have no frame of reference but I'd think the gear would be directly beneath you with a clean fall.

RG, You're right on it. One instructor to four students is the basic rule. As posted on the Preserve's website. The ratio changes as the number of students increases. But, it is all laid out in their regs. Part V, paragraph 2
http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?climbing_instruction

What I find surprising is the size of an instruction group could be 20 students not counting the attending guides. The regs fortunately, won't allow that large a group to do anything more than TR or rappel.

One way or another, it won't be long before LC begins to see bigger crowds and/or the risk of additional regulation or restriction.

Actually Rick, the Preserve's published regulations don't seem to say anything about further restrictions in areas zoned for low impact. What I heard was that any one guide service could only send four pupils into those areas, but as I said, I might be wrong on that. If I'm right, then I've seen that rule violated...

RG,
Yes, what I read on the web site concerns only with the ratio of guides to clients, not where they may instruct. RC

guess the cats outta the bag