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#45678 - 06/11/09 12:25 PM Worst 3 star route?
TrappDyke Offline

Registered: 06/10/09
Posts: 80
This is in oxymoron right? I figured it would be too easy and not very interesting to simply name the worst routes in the Gunks due to the vast expanses of choss. SO maybe these should be routes that really deserve 1 or no stars at all. Anyway, I don't know how many of these are out there, probably not too many but I can think of one that I've climbed twice now and even got a little annoyed that the author of the climb(and guide book)had the nerve to call such a wandering, boring, contrived line a classic. Turdland. Ugh. Like a turd in my drink this has left an awful taste in my mouth for days. No natural line, in fact the poorly placed bolts dictate where you go, which never feels natural. Bad bolts, scary leg breaking traverse which demands one necessary 5.8 move at its end to get some gear, and then the part that really kills me. The phony 5.10 roof. Why anyone would want to subject themselves to pulling this silly move with poor gear in a poor flake is beyond me, so I opt to step about 14" out to the right and take the reasonable way through the roof at about 5.8. After the 25' rope dragging traverse to the bolts you have completed Turdland! A no star, three star, it's only three stars because I'm the guidebook author Gunks classic!

#45687 - 06/11/09 03:06 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: TrappDyke]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2679
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
The name has always kept me away and now I feel justified.

#45704 - 06/11/09 05:45 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: chip]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
I have always found Turdland to be fun if not contrived. It is a little run out, but the gear is good. Doubles makes all the traversing far more reasonable. I don't think that I have ever seen this route with 3 stars though.

A few three star routes which I have never cared for are:
Eastertime Too

Shockleys(I know people love it, but I have always found it to be an uninteresting ugly climb. There are far better 5.6 routes out there)

Something Interesting(never found it very interesting, it's neighbor to the right however Still Crazy After All these years is a great climb that is rarely climbed hidden amongst a wall full of classics. That route has a great crux sequence)

Frogs Head(Greasy and polished, maybe it was a better climb 20 years ago. Its neighbors Maria and City Lights and Son of Easy O are far more interesting and on nicer rock)

#45706 - 06/11/09 06:03 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: Coppertone]
nonya Offline

Registered: 10/26/02
Posts: 65
Loc: Gardiner, NY
I've always thought that Shockley's was barely fantastic and Mainline was merely excellent.

#45710 - 06/11/09 06:21 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: nonya]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Shockleys I think is either love or hate. There are obviously many that think the route is great, but I have spoken with quite a few climbers that don't particularly care for the route. It has great exposure, but I don't find the climbing to be all that nice or interesting.

#45713 - 06/11/09 06:32 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: Coppertone]
Jannette Offline


Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2226
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Personally, I love Eastertime Too.

I'm not a fan of Shockleys, perhaps because I have never been able to do that overhang move in a graceful style. More like grunt, slap, drag, grasp, heave, whine. It's not a fun move.


#45719 - 06/11/09 07:52 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: Jannette]
caver Offline

Registered: 01/11/03
Posts: 260
Loc: High Falls
bogus 3 star routes.........
a couple moderates that are ok, but 3 star?
Belly Roll
Bloody Bush (esp. the upper mank!)

#45732 - 06/11/09 09:00 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: caver]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Man I love the this new grumpier Sure beats reading about the best 5.8 smirk

#45736 - 06/11/09 09:11 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: Smike]
tradjunkie Online   content

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 365
so many to choose from....

Criss Cross Direct
Broken Sling
Main Line
Belly Roll
City Lights
Bloody Bush
Higher Stannard
3 Doves
The Winter
Simple Suff

and I haven't even done Turdland, though I've been very tempted to by looking at it from the ground and from Cakewalk...

#45748 - 06/12/09 02:16 AM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: Smike]
AOR Offline

Registered: 08/27/04
Posts: 392
Originally Posted By: Smike
Man I love the this new grumpier Sure beats reading about the best 5.8 smirk

I have to agree with you. I've chuckled (and, even laughed out loud) more in the last few weeks/months over the majority of the posts on

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