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#45832 - 06/15/09 02:20 AM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: empicard]
J@son Offline
member

Registered: 06/23/08
Posts: 101
Loc: New Jersey
I did double chin last week. Stinker for sure.
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#45849 - 06/15/09 04:48 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: J@son]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
I'll vote for Main Line. And it may be sacrilege but I've never felt like High E was all that.

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#45854 - 06/15/09 05:04 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: empicard]
Leemouse2 Offline
addict

Registered: 05/08/00
Posts: 459
Loc: Rosendale, NY
I'm sure there's someone that can do Shockley's gracefully but it sure as hell ain't me. The last time I led I have to thank the not one but TWO parties who came up to the ledge and were watching me lead it for not laughing out loud at the knee hook and sideways pull up I did.

But Gelsa? Come on, that's an amazing route. I think the third pitch is really what you come for, of course, but it's amazing exposure and climbing for the grade.
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#45857 - 06/15/09 05:50 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: Leemouse2]
Coppertone Online   content
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
The first part of High is is nothing special at all. It really only has about 40 feet of great climbing. Granted that 40 feet is pretty awsome, but I always thought that routes such as the Last Shall Be First had much more climbing on it than all of those three star 5.6 routes such as High E and Shockelys.

I guess it is all a matter of preference. One persons 3 star route is anothers s**t pile and vice versa.

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#45864 - 06/15/09 06:14 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: dalguard]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Originally Posted By: dalguard
I'll vote for Main Line. And it may be sacrilege but I've never felt like High E was all that.


It's well worth climbing, just maybe not worth the walk.

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#45911 - 06/16/09 05:10 AM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: pedestrian]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Both?

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#45920 - 06/16/09 12:21 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: dalguard]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Main Line: I thought the first pitch was surprisingly tough for what is actually a fairly low angle face climb. There were some positions above gear on that where I was feeling a little worked, but never desperate. The second pitch is just a typical Gunks overhanging jug haul, but fun.

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#45994 - 06/17/09 12:17 AM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: pedestrian]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2954
Loc: LI, NY
LSBF is GREAT!
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#62148 - 01/02/12 03:26 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: empicard]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
Did Double Chin yesterday. Good route! Hard for 5.5. Lots of good moves on it. Seldom occupied.
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#62149 - 01/02/12 06:15 PM Re: Worst 3 star route? [Re: AOR]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
i disagree with a lot of these too!

Something interesting was definitely interesting.

I'll do P1 bloody bush every trip if someone wants to do it.

Gelsa P2 and up is awesome for the grade.. my friend climbs .12+ trad and loved leading it.

Eastertime was really fun.

double chin is only 2 star.. 1 star might be better.. the top is awkward for me.

i didn't like shockleys the last time b/c some gumbies broke it into like 9 pitches in front of us.

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