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#46113 - 06/18/09 11:22 AM The easiest 5.10
gunks Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/26/01
Posts: 84
Loc: Rosendale, NY
What's there to do on a rainy day. Let's extend the thread "Ruby Saturday 5.9 or 5.10" to "This got to be the easiest 5.10 at the Gunks!". Please let us know whether you onsight, second, or TR the route.

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#46114 - 06/18/09 11:43 AM Re: The easiest 5.10 [Re: gunks]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: hamlet\'s hand
Not even close. Hang Ten, followed by Circuit Breaker and Oops at Peterskill. All onsights in my early 40s. Of the classic entry-level 10s - Criss-Cross, Never Neverland, Simple Suff, and Wegetables - only Criss-Cross yielded an onsight, back in my early 20s when I was presumably a bit stronger.
_________________________
Shongum ain\'t Indian,
it\'s Shawank-unk.

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#46117 - 06/18/09 12:51 PM Re: The easiest 5.10 [Re: yorick]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2225
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Ha ha, for some of us, there's no such thing as an easy 5.10. :-)

Jannette

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#46118 - 06/18/09 01:04 PM Re: The easiest 5.10 [Re: Jannette]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Sadly, I have yet to truly on site a pitch of 5.10 climbing here at the Gunks. The closest I have gotten is the least pitch of Fat City at 5.10a. I had followed it about 7 years ago once, and hadn't been on it since this spring when I led it clean. My list of Gunks 5.10's is small, but the first one I redpointed was Balrog if you can believe that.

I would say if The money pitch of fat City were on the ground, it wouldn't even be a 5.10. I think it would be one of those 5.9+++ pitches we so love around here.

In Dick's new guide Beatle Brow Bulge gets a 10a rating if I'm not mistaken. This is pretty easy for a 5.10.

So my votes are:

Fat City money pitch at 10a
Beatle brow Bulge at 10a
Balrog at 10b

Colsolation prize goes to Tulip Mussel Garden. It's rated 10c, but that is a gimme lead for it's grade. Well protected one move wonder

RR

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#46119 - 06/18/09 01:29 PM Re: The easiest 5.10 [Re: RangerRob]
mummert Offline
journeyman

Registered: 11/16/99
Posts: 97
Loc: Danbury, CT, USA
The relatively new route, Size Matters, is given 10c. Other than the boulder problem start, it *might* be a 9 at the crux -- it's straight-forward and well-protected... well, if it's dry.

Edited to add: It is a nice route to do if you're in the area (Trusty Rifle). Also nice and new in the Grey Dick is Still Crazy After All These Years.... 10a but you'd like better gear at the start (5.8ish)... the crux protects really well, but is a bit runout after you're through it (15 ft?).


Edited by mummert (06/18/09 01:32 PM)

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#46122 - 06/18/09 02:09 PM Re: The easiest 5.10 [Re: mummert]
felix m Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/01/06
Posts: 63
"The relatively new route, Size Matters, is given 10c. Other than the boulder problem start, it *might* be a 9 at the crux -- it's straight-forward and well-protected... well, if it's dry."

i led this route maybe 15 plus years ago thinking it was whatever that 5.9 next to it was at the time. it was a bit wet. my partner, ted selker, and i thought it pretty tough for 5.9. ted is partly resposible for our present media...

"Selker holds 56 US patents, and is best known for developing the pointing stick (a.k.a TrackPoint) which forms the once distinctive feature of IBM ThinkPads."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ted_Selker


everything is hard...

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#46123 - 06/18/09 02:10 PM Re: The easiest 5.10 [Re: RangerRob]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: hamlet\'s hand
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
In Dick's new guide Beatle Brow Bulge gets a 10a rating if I'm not mistaken. This is pretty easy for a 5.10.
RR


In deference to Mr. Williams, I did Beatle Brow with him when he was re-climbing much for the Gray guide. That was my first time on the route (following), and I went back and led it, with hexes (don't ask), the next week. If it's a 10, it's an enduro 10. I still think it's there with the hardest 9s: Le Teton, Proctor-Silex, Proctoscope, the direct finish on Bonnie's.

Tulip is almost a gimme 10+.
_________________________
Shongum ain\'t Indian,
it\'s Shawank-unk.

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#46125 - 06/18/09 02:26 PM Re: The easiest 5.10 [Re: yorick]
nonya Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/26/02
Posts: 65
Loc: Gardiner, NY
I vote for hang ten and the right mantle (if you're over 5'8"). I can never remember which is "dismantle" and which is "datmantle".

Yorick: Tulip muscle garden is kinda a gimme 10+. Certainly a one move wonder that's very well protected. But I think the move itself is about 10+.

mummert: I disagree about size matters. I thought the grade was about right. I've only done that route once, so maybe it would feel easier the second time (or not...I am getting older and fatter).

I did get all the routes mentioned above onsight (feels too much like bragging to say that last part, but the OP did ask).

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#46128 - 06/18/09 02:34 PM Re: The easiest 5.10 [Re: nonya]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: hamlet\'s hand
Originally Posted By: nonya
I did get all the routes mentioned above onsight (feels too much like bragging to say that last part, but the OP did ask).


Yep, there's a part of me that wants to qualify everything, like, "if one's 40s are any indication."
_________________________
Shongum ain\'t Indian,
it\'s Shawank-unk.

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#46129 - 06/18/09 02:38 PM Re: The easiest 5.10 [Re: yorick]
nonya Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/26/02
Posts: 65
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Originally Posted By: yorick
Originally Posted By: nonya
I did get all the routes mentioned above onsight (feels too much like bragging to say that last part, but the OP did ask).


Yep, there's a part of me that wants to qualify everything, like, "if one's 40s are any indication."


Ha! That's awesome :-)

Edit: I'm guessing you're responding to the "getting older and fatter" part of my post.


Edited by nonya (06/18/09 02:41 PM)

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