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#20498 - 05/18/06 07:57 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: drkodos]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
A touch! Ok going back to work...
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#20499 - 05/18/06 08:09 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: drkodos]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
All my pictures seem glaringly obvious, like MF or Laurel.

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#20500 - 05/18/06 08:59 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: dalguard]
Coppertone Online   content
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Correct, it is Beatle Brow Bulge. But there is no way that it is 5.9. I think that I was upgraded to 5.10 in the new guide book. There are not any really hard moves, but the roof is very big, the face over the roof is slightly overhanging and the whole thing is fairly pumpy and sustained. The route is a little dirty, but it is fun.

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#20501 - 05/18/06 09:05 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Coppertone]
oenophore Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5962
Loc: 212 land
Correct, it is Beatle Brow Bulge.

Sonofa... -- I've done that route twice and failed to recognize it.
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#20502 - 05/18/06 09:19 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: dalguard]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Beatle Brow Bulge it is. 5.9+ in Black Dick but 5.10a in Grey Dick. There's no fixed pro; I think 10a is appropriate for an onsight lead, 'cause you gotta climb it while hanging on to protect it. Todd climbed directly up to the tree rather than trending right as pictured in the guide---surely this is the "right" way to go.

As an aside, on the rappel I clipped into some nice new webbing and, almost as an afterthought, also into an older strand. When Dave came down, he said that the new sling had dropped off into his lap; it was just draped around the tree. If that had been my only connection, I might have taken the big ride to oblivion.

This is the second time in a year that I've encountered something fatally dangerous about a rappel anchor. I posted a picture of webbing with a hidden worn-through section the last time. Of course, had I bought the farm, it would have been a clear case of pilot error, since there is no excuse for not checking the security of webbing before you entrust yourself to it. The only thing that saved my butt was a reflexive inclination to redundancy.

These two incidents point out that just because there is a fixed rap anchor with lots of webbing on it doesn't mean that the anchor is currently trustworthy. You're gonna put your whole weight on the anchor, you better not get the least bit casual about it beforehand.

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#20503 - 05/19/06 01:52 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: rg@ofmc]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
That damm monkey is still climbing around and cutting the back side of slings, man I thought we knocked him off last year.

Hey RG,
All I can say is = [yiiiiikes]

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#20504 - 05/19/06 04:29 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: rg@ofmc]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
RG:
Quote:

Beatle Brow Bulge it is. 5.9+ in Black Dick but 5.10a in Grey Dick.




Wow, it looks phenomenal. It just jumped to the top of my ticklist, thanks!

RG:
Quote:

<snip scary rappel stories>




Amen! I left a cordelette behind to back up a recent rappel. It was either that or trust a chunk of old rope that was worn (or chewed) halfway through in several spots, and bleached grey anyway.

GO

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#20505 - 05/19/06 04:34 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: GOclimb]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
Okay, here's another one. No cheating now!

One hint: This variation roof vies in popularity with the original line.



GO

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#20506 - 05/19/06 07:34 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: GOclimb]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2224
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Bonnie's Roof direct?

Jannette

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#20507 - 05/19/06 12:47 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Jannette]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
Quote:

Bonnie's Roof direct?

Jannette




Correct! Wow, I guess that one was too easy. Impressive recognition!

GO

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