Perhaps this has been discussed, but I've been here since the start and don't remember the topic...

Anyone else think P3 of Sixish is a tad hard for the grade (and by tad, I mean that in a sarcastic way). Not saying the climbing was not good, but it sure seemed more like 5.6 than 5.4 and double ropes would have been real sweet.

With that in mind, anyone done P3 of Jean (I think). It's supposed to be 5.5 and goes up the face just left of Sixish.

Finally, what is the grade if you go straight over the small bulge on P3 (that is, straight up from the crack after the GT ledge) instead of traversing under the roof and going through the notch on the right ? Looked like good climbing but I can find no reference to it as a variation (or is that P3 of Jean ?).

Thanks

Tim S

Tim, I'm not being a wiseass or anything, but maybe that's why it's called sixish. It's been a while, bu I do seem to recall saying just about the same thing you just said.

RR

Nah, the Sixish name refers to the following facts:

1. In the original YDS and also, quite a bit more vaguely, in several of the European grading systems, class 6 referred to direct aid.

2. The original ascent used aid to get over the roof, now 5.10, that the regular route skirts on the left and then traverses over.

1. In the original YDS and also, quite a bit more vaguely, in several of the European grading systems, class 6 referred to direct aid

As well as the highest level of free climbing in Europe (~5.10) between the world wars.

RG beat me to it, but that "common" knowledge about the name was reinforced (maybe started?) by Swain in the old guide where he made the crack about the grade.

So, can anyone actually answer the question about going straight up over the bulge left of the roof, instead of traversing under and going through the notch ?

Sounds as if we came to the same conclusion about P3 then RR. And from what I've found scattered on the intardweb, it seems a bunch of other folks have also, some of whom (like RR) have opinions I trust.

I can't believe I've been climbing there 20 years and had never done that pitch. At least I don't remember it and I did not have it noted in my guidebooks.

T

I've gone straight up over the bulge, but it was many years ago and I don't remember much about it. I think it is a little harder than the normal way, but not much, and less interesting to boot.

I think the start of the first pitch is pretty hard for the grade, too.

I once caught a leader fall early in that pitch. She pitched off on that reach-over move about 20 feet up. She inverted as she fell, and I caught her on her first piece, a nut, with inches before her face hit the talus slope.

That was the end of that day of climbing.

GO