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#47178 - 07/30/09 04:12 AM legal climbing crags on the ridge
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
All this talk about restricted climbing acces recently has got me thinking about all the legal places to climb on the ridge. Here is a list, I think it is complete, of all the legally accessible climbing areas on the Shawangunk Ridge.

1. Shawangunk State Forest- small east facing cliff band south of route 52

2. Witches Hole State Forest- Short but steep cliff band immediately behind Eastern Correctional Facility on Rt 209 in Napanoch

3. Chevchenko- tucked away crag with some bolted and trad lines off of Foordmore Rd in Kerhonkson

4. Peterskill- We all know where this is

5. Millbrook- We all know about it. Biggest, baddest crag on the ridge. How many of you have done any routes on it? Let's not get into whether the cliff itself is actually private land or not. As of now it is currently aceptable to climb there.

6. Near Trapps- We all know it

7. Lost City- You've probably heard of it. That's all I'll say.

8. Trapps- we all know it

9. Bonticou- sunny, winter time destination.

10. Outback Slabs- large slabs with some lines on it that can be seen from Clove Rd

11. Sun Bowl- look north as you leave New Paltz for the cliff. See that orange rock? Ain't nothin easy there

12. Northeast Crag- Okay, I made up the name for this because I don't know the real name. cliff line that parallels Springtown Rd. Adenture climbing for sure. Is quite tall in spots...140'+/- I think

13. Triple Right- Also known as High School Hill. The furthest extension of the northeast crag.


That's it as far as I know. If you know of any other legal climbing access areas on the ridge, add to the list. So far there are 13 seperate, accessible cliffs. How many have you climbed at?

I think this is a list something like Empicard was asking about recently. Although I've left the exact locations vague, just to annoy people. There has to be some effort on your part, right?

RR

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#47180 - 07/30/09 10:51 AM Re: legal climbing crags on the ridge [Re: RangerRob]
Jgreene Offline
member

Registered: 07/17/08
Posts: 171
Rob Mecus (aka Ranger Rob),

At least two of the places on your list are not legal to climb on and the "Northeast crag" area has been publically talked about by the Mohonk Preserve as an area where they do not want foot traffic. Plus you failed to mention The Cereus Way Crag owned by Paul Friberg, and the Small Crag owned by Janette of the GCC.
Millbrook is largely private and off limits but has some sections that are owned by the mohonk Preserve (a bit north of Realm of the 5th class climber) I believe. Why would you say Millbrook is all legal? What is your basis? Because I have NEVER heard that!


Edited by webmaster (07/30/09 08:59 PM)

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#47181 - 07/30/09 11:05 AM Re: legal climbing crags on the ridge [Re: Jgreene]
Jgreene Offline
member

Registered: 07/17/08
Posts: 171
"5. Millbrook- We all know about it. Biggest, baddest crag on the ridge. How many of you have done any routes on it? Let's not get into whether the cliff itself is actually private land or not. As of now it is currently aceptable to climb there."

Mecus,

This very statement is enough to question it's legal status. You state it's legal and then say "Let's not get into whether the cliff itself is actually private land or not." Why? Is that not the point of whether a crag is off limits?

You also say "As of now it is currently aceptable to climb there."

What is your basis for this statement?

The only truth is that Millbrook is the biggest and baddest crag.

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#47184 - 07/30/09 11:45 AM Re: legal climbing crags on the ridge [Re: Jgreene]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Thanks, Rob. One winter visit many years ago to the sun bowl convinced me that it was way above my level.

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#47185 - 07/30/09 01:08 PM Re: legal climbing crags on the ridge [Re: chip]
nonya Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/26/02
Posts: 65
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Rob,

Thanks for posting this. I rented a cottage in Kerhonkson for a couple years and I've never heard of Chevchenko (which isn't that surprising. I never talk to anyone :-)

I'm going to go check that place out. Again, sincerely, thank you very much.

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#47187 - 07/30/09 01:20 PM Re: legal climbing crags on the ridge [Re: nonya]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
J, please don't put words in my mouth. I didn't say it was ALL legal. My basis for saying that it is currently acceptable to climb at Millbrook is based on the fact that many people do, no one stops them, it has been going on for a lot of years, and there are unportested guidebooks telling people they can climb there. Historically, it is acceptable. I believe I did mention that some parts of the cliff may be on private property, or may be illegal. I didn't feel like breaking out tax maps and sectioning off what climbs are illegal or legal in the post. That's why I made the disclaimer.

As of now, you can go to the end of the Millbrook Carraigeway, walk up to the rap anchor, rap down, and climb some routes and you will not be questioned by anyone about your activities. Of course, you know this answer already. You're just trying to stir up some stupid argument with me that frankly isn't as much as the lint from my butt crack.

As far as the Northeast Crag. It is, I assure you, perfectly legal to climb on. It rests fully on Mohonk Preserve property until such time as it runs into either the AI wall to the south, or the Conglomerate to the north. There is plenty of quality accessible cliff between the two. Sorry, but you're just ill informed

I failed to mention Pauls cliff, (which is known as the Comglomerate, not Cereus Way) because it is private property, and everyone except you seems to accept that.

RR

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#47188 - 07/30/09 02:10 PM Re: legal climbing crags on the ridge [Re: Jgreene]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2225
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Originally Posted By: Jgreene
Rob Mecus (aka Ranger Rob),

Plus you failed to mention The Cereus Way Crag owned by Paul Friberg, and the Small Crag owned by Janette of the GCC.


Excuse me, but Rob's list was for places where it was legal to climb. why would my pathetic little piece of rock end up in that list? It's not open to the public (and I doubt the public would really want to bother with it).

Jannette

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#47192 - 07/30/09 04:41 PM Re: legal climbing crags on the ridge [Re: Jannette]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Thanks, Rob, that's pretty cool to have listed.

Oh, and for the record, over the six years or so that I frequented the Gunks, I never made it beyond the Trapps and Nears. For the limited amount of time I had in the area (driving from Boston on weekends) the potential of just those two crags still felt practically limitless.

If I'm ever back there for an extended time, though, I'd like to check out some other places. If for no other reason, just to experience the different flavors.

GO

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#47203 - 07/30/09 07:02 PM Re: legal climbing crags on the ridge [Re: RangerRob]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
It's a shame that this thread even exists. The GCC has a "complete" inventory of Ridge climbing sites they assembled a few years ago, but won't share with the climbing community.

BTW Bonticou is not just for winter climbing. Much of it faces SW and is shaded in the AM.

And isn't Giant's Workshop on the MP?

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#47205 - 07/30/09 07:49 PM Re: legal climbing crags on the ridge [Re: Mike Rawdon]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Totally forgot Giant's Workshop. Add that to the list as #14.

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