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#68121 - 05/19/13 03:39 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: TrappDyke]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
You'd want gear 1' closer to you if you were on that climb, too.

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#68124 - 05/19/13 02:19 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Lucander]
TARGHEE Offline
newbie

Registered: 06/30/00
Posts: 48
Loc: NYC
I would have to disagree...would much rather risk the slightly larger whip then try to pl all those roofs with what appears will be a lot of drag! And who's calling Mike R a jerk? It was a good observation, and I sincerely doubt he meant any ill will. Fyi, "jerk" is reserved for 8 yr olds and makes you sound pretty pathetic

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#68128 - 05/19/13 06:37 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: TARGHEE]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
gotta agree.. that looks seriously draggy.

and for a second more important reason that the gear will get skewed out of where you left them or walk back and be useless. not extending an extra foot isn't worth having a piece that will rip if you actually need it.

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#68129 - 05/19/13 06:42 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: jakedatc]
TrappDyke Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/10/09
Posts: 80

I'm sure the leader is very capable of sling management. Sometimes you just get it wrong.

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#68130 - 05/19/13 08:47 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: TrappDyke]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Yea, I was being a jerk with that snarky cheap shot. I figured I was entitled to it, considering how many times *I've* clipped short when the climbing got hard. Hell, last summer I built a freakin' mini anchor featuring no more than 12" worth of slingage. The problem? This was all nice and snug underneath a 4 foot roof!

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#68132 - 05/20/13 01:45 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: Mike Rawdon]
cfrac Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 462
Not sure if "Guess the Route" is the proper forum for critique, but I would like to make two points...
1. Due to foreshortening the line of the rope can appear less straight than it actually is.
2. Sometimes the benefit of the shorter fall outweighs the downside of a bit of rope drag.

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#68133 - 05/20/13 01:52 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: cfrac]
cfrac Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 462
actually a third point too...
3. If a section of a climb is desperate enough sometimes you just have to clip and go because the time and energy involved in lengthening the sling is worse than the resulting rope drag.

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#68134 - 05/20/13 01:55 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: jakedatc]
cfrac Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 462
Originally Posted By: jakedatc

and for a second more important reason that the gear will get skewed out of where you left them or walk back and be useless. not extending an extra foot isn't worth having a piece that will rip if you actually need it.


Depends on the placement, if the piece off to the right was a nut slotted from the right, the force from the rope would help to keep it in place.

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#68137 - 05/20/13 11:29 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: cfrac]
NYZoo Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/06/08
Posts: 59
Loc: Gunks
Well this wasn't exactly what I was going for with trying to get some traffic on this thread but I guess it will do... :-)
The second piece in the pic is extended but off to the right. The third piece is at the start of the crux 1 sequence and probably should have been extended but I was worried about falling onto the lower angle rock below and clipped short (kind of a desperate crux). I think the pic makes it look a little worse than it was because I didn't have any real drag at all. I went all the way to the Welcome anchor and lowered with a 70m and had no trouble pulling the rope. I did say when I got to the ground and looked up at the rope line that I should have extended the third piece.. oh well.. at least we all got to discuss it :-)

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#68139 - 05/20/13 04:49 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: NYZoo]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Hmm... Need to keep quickdraws short but worried about drag? One of a host of reasons to use a pair of half ropes.

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