I'm in the market for a set of hexes, and I was wondering how useful they are for the Gunks. I'm going to get them anyway as I need them for alpine routes, but whether or not they're useful in the Gunks will influence the choice between slung and wired hexes.

How hard do you plan to climb at the Gunks? If you're talking 5.12, forget about hexes. At 5.6, IMO, they're nearly as useful as the same sized cams from Camalot #.75 to Camalot #3 (roughly size 6 to size 11 Metolius curved hexes).

In the midrange of grades, I, for one, would basically bring hexes where others might bring doubles in a given set of cams.

However, I have been told that I have an inordinate appreciation for hexes, and that in fact they are not as useful as I find them to be.

GO

Sorry to bump...

I find that I carry at least one small hex [#1 wired] on harder leads and more hexes, up to about a #8 on moderate terrain. And if you ever climb an alpine route that isn't too hard, hexes kick the snot out of cams for their weight and it's OK to leave a couple of hexes if the weather goes south. It totally blows to leave cams as rap anchors.

I think any climber aspiring to do longer moderate routes with longer approaches and longer descents should have a set of hexes. Play around with tham and you'll find all kinds of creative ways to use them. The slung hexes work great over horns and around all kinds of pokey features.

And a well slung #11 hex will beat everything in a bar fight except a gun.

I'm sure every crusty old veteran will agree with you on all these points. The funny thing is, you never see them actually climbing with hexes. It's always some gumby fresh out of the gym who comes clanking down the carraigeway with a harness full of cowbells. Why is that???

RR

Even before there were cams, I rarely used hexes at the 'Gunks; I never found them very useful. I finally realized I hadn't used - or carried them - them there in over 30 years and sold them all except for the #11. Quien sabe.

Again? Sure.
IMHO - not very useful in the pebbly Gunks conglomerate.

After a couple of months of owning hexes, I've only placed them a couple of times on easy routes like Three Pines.

On the other hand, I was out in RMNP a couple of weeks ago doing some climbs in Lumpy Ridge and an alpine route (N Ridge of Spearhead), and out there I definitely placed my hexes a lot more.

Still, I've answered my own question... hexes stay home for the Gunks from now on.

hexes are not necessary in the gunks
only spells and the occasional potion

I find that curved hexes work ok at the gunks, but flat sided hexes found less use. In general, gunks placements are more horizontal cracks and features than vertical cracks. As a result, Hex's and curved hexes are not as critical parts of the rack as compared with vertical crack rich areas like the Valley, Cathedral, J-Tree, etc.

That said, a good leader adapts to what's on his/her rack. Change the rack but keep the size ranges... an experienced climber is still successful in cimbing safely.