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#4746 - 06/06/02 03:33 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: buzzardboy]
Eddie Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1446
Loc: NP. NY
i heard bobbys did it C to C with a partner and trad gear in just over 3 hours.......but he was too tired to run to the top, or he may have been faster! :::::)))))))))))))))
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#4747 - 06/06/02 06:04 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: BobbyS]
drewski Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/06/02
Posts: 50
Loc: Litchfield County, CT
I'll be in the valley right before July 4th. We're hoping to climb Snake Dike, but are a bit concerned with the approach from above the falls to the base of the climb. I've read quite a bit online from easy, well-marked trails to epics. Having climbed it several times, can you advise me on this part of the approach? Also, what is the best way to begin the first pitch? I've read "follow the book," "go left," "go right," "use the tree..."
My thanks...

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#4748 - 06/06/02 10:12 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: drewski]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
Dean did it in 3hrs and he said that he was unable to run the top part. I did it with a rope with a friend that did not want to solo it and I think we went car to car using the falls trail in about 5.5 hrs. We belayed for each pitch unroping after two rope stretching gear belays above the end of the dike. This involved 14 miles of trail. The fastest way is to go up the death slabs, then up Bushido Gulley and then do the death slabs trail for the return trip.

Personally I really like the falls trail up to the snake dike. The trail can be a little confusing. You just have to be dilligent at following small piles of stones. They are there. If you are not finding on, don't just forge ahead. Look around till you find the next one.

As far as the route goes, I have never actually done the route described in the book. I go up to the tree and then climb strait up from there to the actual dike. This way I can make it to the second crux pitch in one pitch. This involves climbing up a slightly right leaning crack and then going for a good slab run out strait up to the route proper avoiding the traverse. Its not more than a grade harder. I would say in the 5.7 range. If there is a party or two ahead of you this is a good way to pass them as well.

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#4749 - 06/06/02 10:17 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: buzzardboy]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
Andrew McMullin and Lawrence Kerver climbed Arches, Crest Jewel, Snake Dike, and the
Moratorium in about 14 hours.

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#4750 - 06/06/02 11:26 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: BobbyS]
Eddie Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1446
Loc: NP. NY
it was faster than 5.5 hours. watch bobby's lies.
know why they call him bobbys? bobby sandbag.
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#4751 - 06/12/02 10:03 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: Eddie]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1915
Loc: Los Angeles
5.5 hours sounds right. I have a hard time seeing any person doing the whole thing in 3 hours car to car. Just how fast can anyone run 14-15 miles of trail?

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#4752 - 06/13/02 12:23 AM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
Eddie Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1446
Loc: NP. NY
lester,
take the death slabs route.....way faster.
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#4753 - 06/13/02 12:34 AM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: Eddie]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1915
Loc: Los Angeles
Eddie:

Okay. But the name is kinda freaking me out. Are these Death Slabs really deadly? Any beta for this approach.

I'm planning to meet Chasman in the valley and we have our eye on Snake Dike. I've never been to the Valley before and I'll need all the beta I can get.

Anyone else willing to chime in with recommended routes in the 5.6-5.8 range, it would be greatly appreciated.

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#4754 - 06/13/02 09:26 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
If you are going to do Snake Dike for the first time and have never been up to HD before then go via the Falls trails. Its an amazing hike. You should not miss hitting Vernal and Nevada Falls on a trip to the valley and if you are heading up to Snake Dike you will pass through the area around Last Lake which is quite beautiful.

In the 5.8 and down range I would go for one of the classic walls like the South Face of Washington's Column. Can be done at 5.6C1. The West Face of the Leaning Tower, 5.8 C2.

For routes in the 5.6-5.8 range:

Nutcracker - all time classic with every pitch being great 5.8

After Six - there is a neat 5.8 roof variation to the last pitch as well. I would recommend the After Seven as a first pitch variation (5.8).

Braille Book (5.8) I have heard that this one is the Astroman of 5.8s. I don't see it. Its really not to hard and protects fairly well. Don't be lead away due to the offwidth pitch. You can stem the whole thing.

Pine Line (5.7) is a pretty neat location as it starts on a huge platform at the base of the Nose and you can do some of the other short el cap base routes like Little John (5.8)

Royal Arches is one of those fun experience type routes (5.7 A0). If you want to extend it in the 5.8 range you can connect it with the West Face of North Dome will take you to some beautiful locations.

I would stay away from Glacier Point due to rockfall but the Center Route on the Grack (5.6) is a great 3 pitch strait in line crack that goes through many sizes.

The best climbs from 5.6-5.8 are up in Tuolumne. All listed below are amazing.

Hobbit Book 5.7R
Cathedral Peak 5.6
Any of the two classic routes on Coness 5.6
Great White Book 5.6R
South Crack 5.8

Golfer's Route is pretty fun but run out knobs 5.7
Norwest Book of Lembert Dome 5.6



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#4755 - 06/13/02 10:03 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: BobbyS]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
BobbyS, you're giving suggestions to LBL, so why not Astroman, 5.7+++ or V3 (highball though)

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