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#4756 - 06/14/02 12:04 AM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: BobbyS]
chazman Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/07/02
Posts: 944
Les... you're taking notes... right? Bobby, is the trip our to Braille Book as bad as I have heard?

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#4757 - 06/14/02 08:23 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: chazman]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
BobbyS:

Thanks for the info! Your suggestions are interesting because after spending a couple hours flipping through the guidebook, those were almost exactly all the routes I thought might be worth checking out.

So Chazman, yeah, I am taking many notes.

I am also interested in Braille Book and yeah, I would have been thinking twice about the chimney ... but like Chazman was asking, is the approach okay? I've heard it's tough and has potential rock fall.

Also, what do you think of the short climbs at the base of El Cap ... like La Cosita Right, Little John Right, Pine Line, Moby Dick Left?

And just how crowded do you think the Valley will get on the Monday-Tuesday before July 4th weekend?

Thanks again for all your help!

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#4758 - 06/14/02 08:26 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: Chas]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
Astroman ... oh sure!

I wish I was in my old climbing shape ... but truth be told I haven't lead anything in a while (just bouldering and TRs) and I have zero experience in the Valley and minimal experience on cracks. Best to start off easy and see how I feel.

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#4759 - 06/14/02 09:42 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
Anonymous
Unregistered


>> Best to start off easy and see how I feel. <<

... and carry prussiks, too.

Geeze

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#4760 - 06/14/02 11:27 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I did the Braille Book in 1970. I remember the so-called offwidth pitch as a dihedral with a wide crack in the back. You don't need any fancy base of El Cap offwidth technique, and I remember the rock as relatively featured for Yosemite, more like the Salathe-Steck than the base of El Cap. I remember it as a nice climb but not a great one, certainly doable by Gunks climbers who are comfortable on 5.8 without special Yosemite preparation.

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#4761 - 06/17/02 12:56 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Sorry, just giving you a hard climb. I always like to joke that Astroman is merely a highball V3, and Grand Illusion in Sugarloaf was done by an amputee and his girlfriend, so how bad can they be.

There are several climbs in Yosemite condusive to Gunks climbers who haven't mastered crack techniques yet,

East Buttt of Middle Cathredal (see my previous warning about the descent but it can be rapped) which goes at 5.9 A0 (or 5.10c) but most of it is 5.8,

The Commitment (5.9 one move- mostly 5.7/8)

Nutcracker (5.8/ 5.9/ 5.10a) 5 pitches of mostly 5.8 depending on how you start it, the 5.8 and the 5.10a being the best.

Have fun



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#4762 - 06/17/02 02:06 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
drewski Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/06/02
Posts: 50
Loc: Litchfield County, CT
Lester:
Notes are good, but make sure you tatoo a big "L" to the back of Chazman's left hand before you let him lead....


Edited by drewski (06/17/02 02:08 PM)

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#4763 - 06/17/02 03:32 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: drewski]
chazman Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/07/02
Posts: 944
Totally uncalled for.

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#4764 - 06/17/02 08:31 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: buzzardboy]
Charlie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/10/02
Posts: 271
Loc: Morristown, N.J.
Here's a pretty good (very well written I might add) recent trip report for Snake Dike including the hike in and out, with pictures!

http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_reports/half_dome_5.html

Enjoy!

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#4765 - 06/17/02 11:32 PM Re: Yosemite/Half Dome [Re: Charlie]
buzzardboy Offline
member

Registered: 04/24/02
Posts: 105
Loc: Pennsylvania
Thanks for the link. That was probably the best report of a Snake Dike climb that I've seen on the web. Good story and good photos.
_________________________
LL

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