Hey All,

Heading to Rogers Rock tomorrow and haven't been able to find any beta on gear for climbs other than Little Finger. I've done LF before and wasn't planning on bringing anything bigger than a #1 BD, but don't want to screw myself on other routes. Is the protection on them similarly small?

Also, would it be worth picking up the new Adirondack Rock guidebook? Is the Rogers Rock section basically the same, or are there enough new routes to justify buying it?

Thx!

-a.

I haven't climbed there yet but the new guide does show more than the old one for that area. It is at least worth looking at the new one to see if you want it. I've only used the new guide on Hurricane Cliff, so far, and it was very good. I'll try to look at that section tonight and compare it to the Burgundy Book of Lies.

The way this week's weather has been, you might need a puffy, bivy coat!

Was thinking just that, Chip.... forecast says days in the 70's and nights in the 40's.

Looks like we'll be overnighting in New Paltz tomorrow, so I'm thinking I'll check out the new guidebook at R&S before heading out on Thursday. From a large amount of Googling it looks like there's at least 3 or 4 additional routes, so I'm leaning towards getting it.

Our latest post is pretty old - newer info might be appreciated.

http://gunks.com/ubbthreads7/ubbthreads....p_Tea#Post12315

The new guidebook is excellent, many new routes and much more detailed info and photos than the Mellor guidebook. Be sure to pack it in something watertight for the canoe approach- mine almost got ruined! There are a bunch of (sparsely) bolted routes, and a recommendation for a PG link-up that goes bottom to top at around 5.7. Not sure you'll be able to place much gear on routes other than Little Finger, but you'll be able to clip a few bolts/pitch. Also, check the Adirondack Rock website- there are updates and corrections to the guidebook there.

There was a ton of development at Rogers Slide just before the book went to press, and this made it into the book. (Be sure to check the new routes page for updates.) Mellor's book describes many historic routes, several of which were pretty much soloes by Tom Rosecrans. Portions of these routes have been resurrected, many by Rosecrans himself, and now there are many reasonably-protected full-length routes here. The topo in the book is a must, and shows you the location of all the bolts and fixed anchors. Regarding gear, the book says:

"Micronuts, slider nuts, and small cams are recommended. Extra slings are useful for managing rope drag. Consider bringing a couple of shock-absorbing quickdraws for marginal placements."

During my recent visit, we climbed The Matrix, Kings and Desperate Men, and Walk The Plank, and never placed any gear, just bolts. It's slab climbing, so expect runouts.

Sounds like I really should pick up the new guidebook, much to my wife's chagrin (I seem to collect them...).

Also sounds like I can probably trim down the rack as well. I'll keep the extra runners, but ditch the second set of cams/tricams and perhaps the second set of nuts. No point in bringing it if there's nowhere to place it...

Thanks!

-a.

Quick followup...

1. The new Lawyer/Haas guide is excellent and has lots of recent info for Roger's Rock (including routes that only went in last Fall).

2. Standard Gunks rack worked fine for LF, but probably could be pared down a good bit if you don't mind running it out more.

3. For Grand Game, P1 of Tone Bone Tennys and P1 of Crucible of War I found Ballnuts and a Black Tricam quite useful. Didn't see much in the way of cam placements, as either the placements were too flaring or the heads on my WC Zeros were too wide.

4. Campsites 4, 7, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 27, 29, 32, 54, 55, 68, 74, 120, 125, 128, 145, 146, 153, 174, 175, 176, 205, 219, 225, 234, 259, and 260 are the nicest and offer the most privacy.

5. There's a TR over on RC with more logistical/what to expect info if anyone is interested... Link

Thanks guys!

Nice TR.

What do you do with the canoe while you climb?

The boats are dragged up onto the small bit of land at the base and tied to a tree.

^^^ what Mike said. There's plenty of room for a couple canoes, but there's a fair amount of lifting/dragging involved. Landing on the left side (closest to the campground) is probably easiest as it's flatter over there.

On a side note, one of the routes on the Jolly Roger slab is named Shipwrecked. Apparently the FA team thought tying their canoe to the base was good enough, but an afternoon of wind/waves came close to sinking it.

ha! you pull it up onto a rocky incline and tie it off and hope that the 3 foot waves(that develop in the afternoon) don't swamp it! we did this climb last year and had fun bailing out the canoe with a nalgene. that lake gets rough!

three foot waves? come on.