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#47821 - 09/08/09 01:12 AM Freeride and Mental Blocks in a Day
cfrac Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 352
Originally Posted By: Jim Lawyer
This route seems to be getting traffic this year, which is cool because I think it's a great route. Did you notice the sheered-off bolt on the Shield? Not sure how it happened, but it's gone (first bolt on the second Shield pitch). Weird.


I didn't notice the sheared off bolt but did notice the 25 foot runout! We fixed up some of the anchors and replaced the sling on the final rap. This requires about 20 feet of webbing and probably will need to be done every few years since it sits on the ground running back to a fat tree and it gets wet and mossy. The thinner trees near the edge are anchored in about a foot of sod.

We went back this weekend to link Freeride with Mental Blocks, what a great day! It took just under 16 hours car to car and we were the only ones climbing though there was a mysterious fixed line down the left side of the Mental Blocks buttress.

Here are some more pics from our link-up...
We did Freeride first, this is p1 at 7:30am


pitch 2


the end of the shield



Pitch 6 on the way to brunch ledge



Following the Endurance Pitch



One more time on the Perverse Traverse



We climbed the route in a little under 4 hours and rapped back to our lunch at the base, it was now noon and we headed to Mental Blocks...

The lightning bolt crack on Mental Blocks...



Pitch 3 the 5.11c traverse with thin feet!



This pitch goes at C1 or 5.10 either we were too tired or this pitch is undergraded. We started pulling on gear at this point...



We linked the 5.7 slab with the short C1 overhang and this worked well





Edited by cfrac (09/08/09 01:19 AM)

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#47822 - 09/08/09 01:19 AM Re: Freeride and Mental Blocks in a Day [Re: cfrac]
cfrac Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 352
I think because of the amazing rock quality and outstanding position this may be the best pitch on Wallface. A #2 camalot handcrack to a pendulum with great exposure!



The pendulum point slings are in sorry shape, we added a new sling but it needs an overhaul. The next party to do this public service should bring a knife, some slings, a medium nut to leave behind and a medium sized quick link.

Looking down from the pendulum point...



The pendulum point anchor...



Looking back down the splitter!


Topping out



It was now around 5pm what a view!



The tolls of granite!



We bushwacked down and hiked out. We were back at the car a little after 8pm. Two fanatstic routes, hard to believe they are in the East. Mental Blocks has some of the highest quality granite in the park!

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#47823 - 09/08/09 03:35 AM Re: Freeride and Mental Blocks in a Day [Re: cfrac]
The Lisa Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/05
Posts: 404
Loc: Da Bronx
Wow. Just.... wow! Great photos from both leader AND follower!
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Sent from my iPad.

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#47827 - 09/08/09 02:54 PM Re: Freeride and Mental Blocks in a Day [Re: The Lisa]
Mark Heyman Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1046
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
Thanks for the inspiring report!

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#47841 - 09/09/09 03:15 AM Re: Freeride and Mental Blocks in a Day [Re: Mark Heyman]
tokyo bill Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/24/00
Posts: 791
Loc: Tokyo
Ditto that - nice TR!

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#47846 - 09/09/09 10:34 AM Re: Freeride and Mental Blocks in a Day [Re: tokyo bill]
chip Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2491
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
A big day. Nicely done.

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#47848 - 09/09/09 12:36 PM Re: Freeride and Mental Blocks in a Day [Re: cfrac]
talus Online   content
old hand

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1193
Nice TR Chris! How's Mark doing?
_________________________
John Okner Photography

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#47858 - 09/10/09 01:51 AM Re: Freeride and Mental Blocks in a Day [Re: talus]
Jim Lawyer Offline
member

Registered: 08/23/00
Posts: 157
Loc: Pompey, NY
The mysterious rope on the Mental Blocks Buttress is on Rubicon, and has been there for at least 3 years. It's in the photos I shot for the book, like 3 years ago. Looks like somebody had an epic.

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#47864 - 09/10/09 11:26 PM Re: Freeride and Mental Blocks in a Day [Re: Jim Lawyer]
RangerRob Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3572
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Nice to hear about people cranking it out and doing some big climbing! I need to go suffer. I'm getting soft.

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#47865 - 09/11/09 02:47 AM Re: Freeride and Mental Blocks in a Day [Re: cfrac]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 513
Loc: Watertown, NY
Thanks for sharing a view of a section of Wallface besides the Diagonal. The photos give a good sense of the character of the rock in the Shield area. Nice cracks!

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