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#47889 - 09/15/09 12:06 AM trango big bro
J@son Offline
member

Registered: 06/23/08
Posts: 101
Loc: New Jersey

Does anyone use the Trango Big Bros? If not, what do you use to protect large vertical off widths?
http://www.trango.com/prod.php?id=34
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#47890 - 09/15/09 12:37 AM Re: trango big bro [Re: J@son]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
I use my partner, frankly.

But my offwidth-loving partner uses his Friends in the larger sizes.

I don't know what his friends use.

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#47908 - 09/15/09 04:01 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: Julie]
RobA Offline
newbie

Registered: 04/16/09
Posts: 46
Loc: Alta, UT
i love my big bro.

i have a #1 and have used it a fair amount here in the east, on OW's and non OW's.

since i bought it this spring, I've used it one every climb i've done at the Delaware Water Gap (about 6) and i've used them on occasion in the gunks and adirondacks. a friend of mine just bought 1-3 because he moved out west, but before he left, he found a climb at the trapps where he got to use all 3.

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-...0_4128029_n.jpg

i have used big cams and big bros and i like my bros better. I've had some people tell me that the Bros are useless out here on the right coast because very few of our cracks are splitters, but just like with any other piece, if you are on the look out for placements, you'll find them and with only a little playing around, big bros can be bomber in even the most pebbly gunks OW.

plus it gives my female partners great lines through out the day, "is that a big bro in your pocket, or are you just happy so see me!"

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#47910 - 09/15/09 04:15 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: RobA]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Originally Posted By: RobA
but before he left, he found a climb at the trapps where he got to use all 3.



ROFL. Brilliant.

File under "when you need 'em, you need 'em." Personally I have little interest in the suffering required when such things are really (emphasis) necessary. Few do, though I do note that the $169 Sportiva TC has a hightop to reduce ankle damage in those wide cracks, something you don't see so much of these days. yeah, $169.. could be a game changer. Total comfort in those strenuous moments.

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#47911 - 09/15/09 04:18 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: RobA]
andrew Offline

Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
I think they are junk. They can be bomber if you have a good stance and a lot of time to fiddle them, but you can't slide them moveable toprope style which makes them nearly useless to me.

The big camalots and big friends complement each other - the wideness of the friends makes them more stable in some places and worthless in others. I loved my old yates big dudes before some asshole stole them out of my car.

When the going gets truly wide, Vally Giants are great if you can get your hands on them. I have the 9" and the 12". A 5.13 offwidth climber friend of mine used to mock me relentlessly for having them until he found a new route where he needed them. I absolutely had to have them for this beauty out in the desert too:

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#47918 - 09/15/09 08:14 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: andrew]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I've drooled all over them in the store but could never find an actual climb that I WANTED to do that needed them. Maybe Tunnel Vision in Red Rocks?

Nice shot and climb, Andrew.

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#47927 - 09/16/09 11:14 AM Re: trango big bro [Re: andrew]
kevin boyle Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 276
Loc: NY, Westport
I still have Eddie's big dudes.

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#47928 - 09/16/09 01:33 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: kevin boyle]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Originally Posted By: kevin boyle
I still have Eddie's big dudes.


That sounds a bit personal.

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#47934 - 09/16/09 03:01 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: chip]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
I use the Big Bro's and use them in spots where I hanging around a while sucks (since I don't have Valley of the Giant cams (Andrew do you and your "friends" want to come out here, a frriend just put up a nice overhanging OW).

I mainly use them on stuff where the OW is really long or harder. Most people I know (along with myself)just run it out if the OW section is less then 30ft long and less then hard 5.10/5.11a (but the grade is subjective depending on how comfortable you are on OW and where the fall would put you although on this one the first 20-25ft is .10a and you can sling the stuck rocks most of us just forget about it and just go for it http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/335297.JPG.


Edited by Chas (09/16/09 03:13 PM)

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#47937 - 09/16/09 04:50 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: Chas]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Originally Posted By: Chas
although on this one the first 20-25ft is .10a and you can sling the stuck rocks most of us just forget about it and just go for it http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/335297.JPG.


Taped hands and a wife/boybeater shirt..excellent choice of attire in the wide. Just a flesh wound etc.

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