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#47990 - 09/18/09 04:43 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: chip]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: chip
I've drooled all over them in the store but could never find an actual climb that I WANTED to do that needed them. Maybe Tunnel Vision in Red Rocks?


Tunnel Vision emphatically does not require any big gear. There is one true offwidth section, but it can be protected adequatel by a couple of standard cams. When you're in the true "tunnel" part, you'd need a 5 foot piece to protect yourself. But protection isn't required, as the climbing is very easy (but fun!)

Quote:
Nice shot and climb, Andrew.


Indeed! That reminds me, when we going to get back to the San Rafael Swell, my friend? We've got a lot of sweet stuff to do there!

GO

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#47992 - 09/18/09 06:52 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: GOclimb]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
Quote:
When you're in the true "tunnel" part, you'd need a 5 foot piece to protect yourself.

Or you can look for the pocket on the right wall that takes a small tri-cam.

And that gets to a the point worth considering. In areas where the rock tends to have complex features, there are often opportunities even in wide cracks or chimneys to find small gear placements. When the rock tends to split cleanly, big gear has its place. In those cases I prefer cams, even if they are a hassle to haul up.

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#48039 - 09/21/09 07:37 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: GOclimb]
andrew Offline

Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
Originally Posted By: GOclimb
Indeed! That reminds me, when we going to get back to the San Rafael Swell, my friend? We've got a lot of sweet stuff to do there!

GO


Soon! I'm just about done painting my god damn house, at which point i'll be good to go.
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#48080 - 09/22/09 04:11 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: Frank Florence]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: Frank Florence
In areas where the rock tends to have complex features, there are often opportunities even in wide cracks or chimneys to find small gear placements.


That's an excellent point. Sometimes the best gear for wide cracks is small to micro gear. That and a willingness to run it out.

GO

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#56490 - 01/08/11 06:36 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: GOclimb]
rackrat Offline
member

Registered: 12/20/02
Posts: 160
Loc: NYC - UWS
I have found good use for them in the Valley, at the Chief (BC), Red Rocks, Josh, Tahquitz, and Cathedral/Whitehorse. They are not my favorite pieces, but do very well at the edge of OW roofs... as they give the rope a smoothe rounded corner to pass over. It's a specialist piece of gear, best IMHO for granite OW cracks.
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#56506 - 01/10/11 03:13 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: rackrat]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2677
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I keep meaning to pick one up for using on Tunnel Vision in Red rocks, but have so far passed on the route instead. Played around with one in the Valley and seems very impressive.

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#56515 - 01/12/11 09:50 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: chip]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: chip
I keep meaning to pick one up for using on Tunnel Vision in Red rocks, but have so far passed on the route instead. Played around with one in the Valley and seems very impressive.


Where on Tunnel Vision would you want one?

GO

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#56518 - 01/13/11 02:55 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: GOclimb]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2677
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Going by word of mouth and a guide I read, folk enjoy having it along for the tunnel section. If you have a different take on it I am all ears.

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#56521 - 01/13/11 07:00 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: chip]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Hmmm.... If that's your concern, then you should go do the route post-haste.

The tunnel section is very very easy, with some protection available in both sides. Also, for 99% of it (if memory serves) the only protection that would span the tunnel would be a five foot wide big bro if such a thing existed.

But perhaps you misunderstood? There is a half a pitch of offwidth which, if you are not familiar with offwidth climbing, you could easily want to sew up. It's not insanely hard, and there are some face holds, but a section of it would be fairly serious without some kind of big gear if you are not somewhat comfortable with the style of climbing.

GO

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#56523 - 01/13/11 09:05 PM Re: trango big bro [Re: GOclimb]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2677
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
u might be right and maybe it is for an off-widthy portion. I've never loved the off width stuff but find it usually goes OK with significant amounts of thrashing and blood letting. If you have a guess as to what size it might take, it might be a good excuse to finally break down and get one.

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