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#47964 - 09/17/09 05:29 PM Your favorite fingercrack?
TrappDyke Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/10/09
Posts: 80
I thought I'd lighten up from my usually abrasive comments with this one. I can't think of too many of these in the Gunk's so I'm thinking abroad here (or not). My personal favorite so far has got to be Exasperator crack in Squamish ( in one pitch of course). I think it's about 160ft of absolutely perfect locks to an awesome hand crack traverse with a mellow enough of a pitch that allows you to smear instead of toe cramming. Absolutely amazing!

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#47967 - 09/17/09 06:40 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: TrappDyke]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Well I haven't led many finger crack to be honest, but the second pitch of Monkey Finger in Zion was pretty freaking cool. Also the second and third pitches of Touchstone. I aided them, but they were swEEET!

RR

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#47970 - 09/17/09 07:02 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: RangerRob]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I keep looking at Straight Shooter in Red Rocks but so far haven't gotten on it.

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#47972 - 09/17/09 07:46 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: TrappDyke]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
i know of some that full time locals don't know about and i will not tell where.
_________________________
John Okner Photography

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#47974 - 09/17/09 11:39 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: talus]
caver Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/11/03
Posts: 260
Loc: High Falls
Straight Shooter = awesome!!

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#47976 - 09/18/09 01:34 AM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: caver]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 224
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Straight Shooter: a grotesquely chalked thin Red Rock that arbitrarily ends part way up the cliff...sounds like a Gunks route, except we'd call it 5.7+

Who can get their fingers in that thing anyway?

DL

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#47977 - 09/18/09 01:46 AM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: Lucander]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 224
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
I guess I owe an answer:

#1 goes to Rubicon (.10) at Joshua Tree: brilliant and obvious natural line to a striking formation's summit, aesthetic, steep, hard thin moves between secure jams.

Honerable Mentions:

Little Finger (.5) at Roger's Rock. Unique, casual, fun, aesthetic obvious line.

Exorcist (.10-) at Josh. Sure, it's only 60 feet ling, but very inch of it is great and the challange is sustained.

Wholesome Fullback at Red Rock (.10-) is pretty legit for the grade, has thin crack down low and keeps getting wider

Vertigo on Cannon (.9), the half moon get the glory but the thin crack on p. 3 is my favorite climbing on the whole route

New Testament (.10-) at Smith, one of the many outstanding overlooked trad routes at this bolted mecca.

Lichen Delight (.11-) and Airation (.11-) are both outstanding, if difficult, with yellow and red alien sized cruxes that fit me so well

Also hard but the showpiece of Rumbling Bald is Shredded Wheat (.11-), very thin, technical at the crux but great finger jammin' until it gets severe

D. Lucander

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#47979 - 09/18/09 10:25 AM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: Lucander]
oenophore Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5963
Loc: 212 land
Now here is a thread that calls for photos; alas, there are none.
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#47981 - 09/18/09 11:33 AM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: oenophore]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Wholesome Fullback left me seriously wondering if I will ever be solid at at .10 crack. I would like to think I was having an off day, but the bit just after the traverse was, well, hard.

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#47982 - 09/18/09 12:30 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: chip]
whatthegunks Offline
member

Registered: 05/09/09
Posts: 135
Loc: High Falls, NY
Red Zinger and Crack A Go Go on the Cookie Cliff in Yosemite are brilliant, especially RZ with it's striking line. Leave It To Jesus in the New River Gorge is another. Airation at Cathedral. A less well known but just awesome line is at East Peak in Meriden, CT called Thunderbolt. This line crosses a beautiful 5.9 called Thor's Hammer and is about 120' long. Starting with a shallow corner/thin crack up into the big TH corner and then right around the corner at a flake and up the fierce overhanging finger crack above; desperate!

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