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#47964 - 09/17/09 05:29 PM Your favorite fingercrack?
TrappDyke Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/10/09
Posts: 80
I thought I'd lighten up from my usually abrasive comments with this one. I can't think of too many of these in the Gunk's so I'm thinking abroad here (or not). My personal favorite so far has got to be Exasperator crack in Squamish ( in one pitch of course). I think it's about 160ft of absolutely perfect locks to an awesome hand crack traverse with a mellow enough of a pitch that allows you to smear instead of toe cramming. Absolutely amazing!

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#47967 - 09/17/09 06:40 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: TrappDyke]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Well I haven't led many finger crack to be honest, but the second pitch of Monkey Finger in Zion was pretty freaking cool. Also the second and third pitches of Touchstone. I aided them, but they were swEEET!

RR

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#47970 - 09/17/09 07:02 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: RangerRob]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I keep looking at Straight Shooter in Red Rocks but so far haven't gotten on it.

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#47972 - 09/17/09 07:46 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: TrappDyke]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
i know of some that full time locals don't know about and i will not tell where.
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#47974 - 09/17/09 11:39 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: talus]
caver Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/11/03
Posts: 260
Loc: High Falls
Straight Shooter = awesome!!

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#47976 - 09/18/09 01:34 AM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: caver]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 223
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Straight Shooter: a grotesquely chalked thin Red Rock that arbitrarily ends part way up the cliff...sounds like a Gunks route, except we'd call it 5.7+

Who can get their fingers in that thing anyway?

DL

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#47977 - 09/18/09 01:46 AM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: Lucander]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 223
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
I guess I owe an answer:

#1 goes to Rubicon (.10) at Joshua Tree: brilliant and obvious natural line to a striking formation's summit, aesthetic, steep, hard thin moves between secure jams.

Honerable Mentions:

Little Finger (.5) at Roger's Rock. Unique, casual, fun, aesthetic obvious line.

Exorcist (.10-) at Josh. Sure, it's only 60 feet ling, but very inch of it is great and the challange is sustained.

Wholesome Fullback at Red Rock (.10-) is pretty legit for the grade, has thin crack down low and keeps getting wider

Vertigo on Cannon (.9), the half moon get the glory but the thin crack on p. 3 is my favorite climbing on the whole route

New Testament (.10-) at Smith, one of the many outstanding overlooked trad routes at this bolted mecca.

Lichen Delight (.11-) and Airation (.11-) are both outstanding, if difficult, with yellow and red alien sized cruxes that fit me so well

Also hard but the showpiece of Rumbling Bald is Shredded Wheat (.11-), very thin, technical at the crux but great finger jammin' until it gets severe

D. Lucander

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#47979 - 09/18/09 10:25 AM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: Lucander]
oenophore Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5934
Loc: 212 land
Now here is a thread that calls for photos; alas, there are none.
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#47981 - 09/18/09 11:33 AM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: oenophore]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Wholesome Fullback left me seriously wondering if I will ever be solid at at .10 crack. I would like to think I was having an off day, but the bit just after the traverse was, well, hard.

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#47982 - 09/18/09 12:30 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: chip]
whatthegunks Offline
member

Registered: 05/09/09
Posts: 134
Loc: High Falls, NY
Red Zinger and Crack A Go Go on the Cookie Cliff in Yosemite are brilliant, especially RZ with it's striking line. Leave It To Jesus in the New River Gorge is another. Airation at Cathedral. A less well known but just awesome line is at East Peak in Meriden, CT called Thunderbolt. This line crosses a beautiful 5.9 called Thor's Hammer and is about 120' long. Starting with a shallow corner/thin crack up into the big TH corner and then right around the corner at a flake and up the fierce overhanging finger crack above; desperate!

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#47983 - 09/18/09 12:49 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: whatthegunks]
gunkie Offline
member

Registered: 07/19/00
Posts: 120
Loc: New Hope, PA
Zig Zags

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#47984 - 09/18/09 01:04 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: gunkie]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2082
Loc: SoCal
Zip, Squamish; also agree with Exasperator, and a few others at the Grand Wall base.

Straight Shooter - yes, especially for those of us who can get our fingers in! ;-)

I haven't gotten on Exorcist yet; Dave, is the pro good once you've left the crack? That's what looks scarrry to me.

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#47986 - 09/18/09 02:05 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: Julie]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I am shocked no one has yet taken this thread into the bedroom (or dumpster). Just sayin'.

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#47987 - 09/18/09 02:55 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: chip]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
Exasperator gets a big plus for quality of rock and consistency in climbing .

The 2nd pitch of the Central Pillar of Frenzy is a favorite for location and simply by being less difficult than expected!

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#47991 - 09/18/09 04:53 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: Frank Florence]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2354
Loc: Boston
Airation is the only one of these I've done. It's definitely excellent, though often a little wet.

I've been on Touchstone, and I'd love to try to free the fingers part some day. Seemed absolutely fantastic.

Here's one no-one else has mentioned: Fingers in a Lightsocket, at Indian Creek. Surprisingly not as hard as it looks (or sounds!) right up until the crux. A really nice route.

GO

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#48020 - 09/21/09 01:01 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: GOclimb]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Exasperator is pretty good, but I think Crime of the Century is probably even better for being a pure finger crack

The following a fairly hard ticks's but the climbing is amazing

Equinox (5.12c) in Joshua Tree. Absolutely beautiful line to slightly overhangfing fingers with technical feet to a jog to the left http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/345533.jpg

Mutiny on the Bounty (5.12a) at Paradise Forks some people stem it but most of us campus between perfect finger locks. Paradise Lost (5.12a) at Paradise Forks consisting of overhanging fingers in a dihedral.

Ruby's Cafe (5.13a) at Indian Creek tight fingers in a double corner change leading to a roof (if you are tall, its much harder then Micah made it look in "Return to Sender". A perfect finger crack (take 2 0.3 blue C4's and 8 0.4 Grey C4's) At an Easier grade in IC is Johnny Cat (5.11d) http://www.youtube.com/v/HcIuz6B1Qe8 which is a striking wide finger crack. Annunaki (5.11d/5.12a) ( http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/460189.JPG )is also good (though it goes from hands to fingers) and don't be afraid of the grade since if you work out in a gym it actually climbs like its 5.11b. There is an even better more perfect finger crack there but until I get it all I'll say is that its hard (in the 5.13c/d range), but its a perfect finger crack.


As mentioned Red Zinger (5.11d) in Yosemite http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/281809.jpg is a good finger crack as is the crux pitch of the Rostrum (soft 5.11c) http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/264446.JPG .

Due tgo the nature of perfect finger cracks they tend to have stratospheric grades, but a great finger crack at a more reasonable grade is Gemini Cracks (5.9) on Hammer Dome At Calavaras Dome (in No California). Its gotta be one of my favorite 5.9's.


Edited by Chas (09/21/09 01:23 PM)

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#48024 - 09/21/09 02:26 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: whatthegunks]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 223
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Julie,
Exorcist is tough to get going because you're close to the "ground" (read: granite) but it's okay up high because at Joshua Tree they use these things called bolts. I hear they've taken on well at this chose pile in New Hampshire called Rum-Knee.

DL

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#48033 - 09/21/09 06:42 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: Lucander]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2082
Loc: SoCal
ah, hah, hah.

Yeah, I've rapped over it (Exorcist) and given it a close look; it looks tough off the ground, then there's a good gap between the end of the crack and the bolt protecting the face climbing. What I'm scared of is the transition between crack and face, and the possible splat if I fell before getting to the bolt. It looks like it might be okay.

Edit - another Josh mention - Sail Away.


Edited by Julie (09/21/09 06:51 PM)

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#48066 - 09/22/09 12:08 AM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: Julie]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2952
Loc: LI, NY
how is it possible to have gone this far with no mom jokes?
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Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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