|
4 registered (TrappDyke, jakedatc, gunks, 1 invisible),
13
Guests and
1
Spider online. |
|
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
#59649 - 08/15/11 11:08 PM
Re: Breaking into 5.9-- short cruxes, good gear
[Re: eparker_s]
|
addict
Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 582
Loc: NYC
|
Three Vultures: P1 is a good pitch for the new 5.9 leader. If you can get off the ground to grab the good edge, you've done the hardest move. I'm short and it took me a couple tries, but once I got the edge it was no big deal after that. Two more little thin moves to the pro and the whole pitch is in the bag. P2 (which I followed) is really the money pitch, but it doesn't have any moves as hard as P1. Mentally P2 is harder, though, with an awkward flaring crack and then an intimidating (but easy) traverse.
Keep on Struttin': P2 is not for a new 5.9 leader. Burly pitch with hard moves right off the GT ledge with poor pro; then up above the pro is good when it gets hard but it is a real keep-it-together and hang-in-there situation. I was following this but I thought it was one of the harder 5.9 pitches I've been on in the Gunks. P3 is also rated 5.9 and it's a great introductory 5.9 lead. Good face climbing with great pro, almost all of it 5.7 to 5.8-ish. One interesting but not strenuous move at the very end of the pitch and you're out.
Red Cabbage: Surprisingly fun climb. Good pro, more pumpy than you might think for a couple moves. Then you escape around the corner and it's all easy. A good choice.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#59657 - 08/16/11 01:26 PM
Re: Breaking into 5.9-- short cruxes, good gear
[Re: RangerRob]
|
addict
Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 582
Loc: NYC
|
You know Rob, Dick has Keep on Struttin' as a plain ol' 5.9 in his 2004 book. No plus. I think it deserves a plus if you do it Dick's way off the GT Ledge with the start directly below the roof, and for the move right after the bolt, up to the jugs that are then strenuously followed left.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#59661 - 08/16/11 05:54 PM
Re: Breaking into 5.9-- short cruxes, good gear
[Re: SethG]
|
Pooh-Bah
Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2054
Loc: SoCal
|
"I've seen 5.11 divided into 11 different grades of increasing difficulty, as follows: 5.11a, 5.10d, 5.11-, 5.11b, 5.11, 5.11c, 5.9 squeeze, 5.11+, 5.10 OW, 5.12a, 5.11d" — Brutus of Wyde.
(RIP, Brutus).
And everyone knows that 5.9+ is harder than 5.11a!
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#59670 - 08/16/11 09:43 PM
Re: Breaking into 5.9-- short cruxes, good gear
[Re: RangerRob]
|
Pooh-Bah
Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2410
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
|
Any 5.9+ in the Gunks or Adirondacks should be given a very healthy respect for it's grade. They are often serious leads, with strenuous positions. let's remember that climbers back in the day were reluctant to call anything harder than 5.9.....so a lot of harder routes were bumped up into the ceiling of 5.9+. There are plenty of 5.10's that I have led that were easier than some 5.9+'s. A short list of fearsome 5.9's in New York...
Keep on Struttin' Le Teton Beatle Brow Bulge Grim Ace face Bloody Mary (Poke-O) Phase Three (Poke-O) The Great Dihedral (Poke-O)
You might want to add Psychosis at Poko to that list, another one whose grade is explained by your commentary. Bloody Mary is an AMAZING bit of climbing for 1959. Turner would have been shod in shoes worse than today's approach shoes and had a few soft-iron blades and maybe a ring angle. (People go up there nowadays with cams--often doubles---up to 2" and maybe a bigger one for the crux layback.)
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
|