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#48006 - 09/20/09 04:03 AM
Re: Breaking into 5.9-- short cruxes, good gear
[Re: Coppertone]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
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I don't know about Keep On Struttin as being anywhere near an entry level climb. The climbing on pitch 2 and 3 is fantastic, but runout in places and quite solid at the grade. Maybe not entry level (and maybe even harder than 5.9 when done this way) but the gear is adequate where you need it, if you use the climber's right side start to the second pitch, below that little 0.4 camalot pocket. The third pitch is much easier than pitch 2. If you do the left hand start I agree the gear is nonexistent but the moves are more thoughtful and controllable. Re Grand Central: let's just say I knew somebody was going to disagree with me on that, and I understand the reasons, but it was an early 5.9 lead for me and it felt reasonable. Micro nuts? I don't really remember needing much of 'em on the 2nd pitch, but maybe I was just really comfortable on that terrain (and this was years ago.) I remember simply focusing on the footwork, relaxing, climbing/traversing maybe just a few feet more between placements than I had previously been accustomed to, and then the route opened up and offered placement opportunities. There was one Alien that I had to jam a little bit, the trigger/stem was in the way and I had placed the one that would have fit better, earlier. The third pitch is only 5.8+ if you are tall enough to have no trouble reaching through the hand/fist crack. Now, for a nice entry level climb for the solid 5.10 leader, how about Double Crack?
Edited by pedestrian (09/20/09 04:05 AM)
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#48007 - 09/20/09 05:19 AM
Re: Breaking into 5.9-- short cruxes, good gear
[Re: Coppertone]
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veteran
Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1512
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Daniel I'm not sure that you found scary about the first pitch of Face to Face. There isn't much gear for the first 15 feet or so, but it is only about 5.5 climbing. The start seemed very indistinct, so I may have been a bit off-route, but I thought it was solid 5.7 with no gear for more than the first 15 feet. My second (not as tall as I am) climbed at my ability level but fell before getting to the first piece of gear. There have been other instances where I didn't want to fall, but that was the only time I really thought I might get seriously hurt. But as I wrote above, perhaps I wasn't quite in the right place, which could have made a big difference. I'd be glad to defer to the consensus of others who have been on it. In any case, p2 does, I think, have both a short crux with good gear, though one has to hang out a bit to get it in (which I found to be true on many other 9s at the cliff--decent gear, but much more strenuous to place than on the 8s). I'll second the recommendation of p1 of Erect Direction for getting up to the GT Ledge for the other 5.9 climbs in that area. That's one sweet 5.8 pitch (and oodles of gear).
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#48009 - 09/20/09 05:07 PM
Re: Breaking into 5.9-- short cruxes, good gear
[Re: Mike Rawdon]
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journeyman
Registered: 07/12/04
Posts: 60
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Threads like these always seem to turn into a "list every 9 at the Gunks" thread. I'll do my part...
Nobody has mentioned Arch Direct. Short crux with good gear.
When I talk to people about breaking into the 5.9 climbs, I first ask if they have done Birdland (with the direct finish on the second pitch), Three Doves and Modern Times. If you can comfortably send these 5.8+ climbs then you are more than ready for Grand Central (which is a bit runout at the crux, micronuts or not), Absurdland, Sente, No Glow and Roseland. All of these climbs are soft for 5.9. From there do Ant's Line, Arch Direct, Bonnie's Roof Direct, CCK Direct and Directissima. At this point you should be comfortable at the grade and can tick 5.9 to your heart's content. Save MF and Le Teton for last. When you send those, you are ready to start on 5.10.
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#48011 - 09/20/09 07:11 PM
Re: Breaking into 5.9-- short cruxes, good gear
[Re: Aya]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2410
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
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Cornell is right; sooner or later you'll get practically every G or PG 5.9 climb in the Gunks, partially because the grading isn't precise anyway, partially because different individuals have different experiences on the same climb, and partially because some folks just have to mention their favorite pitches, whether or not they meet your criteria.
So here is what to do: get out your Williams guides, pick a 5.9 with some stars and a rating no worse than PG, and give it a try. If you don't like what you've gotten into, climb down and come back another day. Repeat, returning to your nemeses, until you've mastered the grade. You don't need any more information than that.
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#48013 - 09/21/09 01:01 AM
Re: Breaking into 5.9-- short cruxes, good gear
[Re: rg@ofmc]
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enthusiast
Registered: 08/27/04
Posts: 389
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So here is what to do: get out your Williams guides, pick a 5.9 with some stars and a rating no worse than PG, and give it a try. If you don't like what you've gotten into, climb down and come back another day. Repeat, returning to your nemeses, until you've mastered the grade. You don't need any more information than that. What's "easy" for one may not be easy for another. This is most likely the best advice to date for leading at your next level.
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#48014 - 09/21/09 03:06 AM
Re: Breaking into 5.9-- short cruxes, good gear
[Re: AOR]
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old hand
Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1123
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
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What's "easy" for one may not be easy for another. This is most likely the best advice to date for leading at your next level. Certainly great advice if your asking on the web. My first partner and I were always glad the other lead the pitch wed just followed.
Edited by Mark Heyman (09/21/09 04:06 AM)
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#48015 - 09/21/09 03:26 AM
Re: Breaking into 5.9-- short cruxes, good gear
[Re: AOR]
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Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
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So here is what to do: get out your Williams guides, pick a 5.9 with some stars and a rating no worse than PG, and give it a try. If you don't like what you've gotten into, climb down and come back another day. Repeat, returning to your nemeses, until you've mastered the grade. You don't need any more information than that. What's "easy" for one may not be easy for another. This is most likely the best advice to date for leading at your next level. Alternatively, you can try to find out which of the current 5.n climbs were rated 5.n-1 prior to the 1980 guidebook. Those would be the routes that are easy for their new grade and hence good starter climbs in that grade.
_________________________
- Marc
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