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#47983 - 09/18/09 12:49 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: whatthegunks]
gunkie Offline

Registered: 07/19/00
Posts: 120
Loc: New Hope, PA
Zig Zags

#47984 - 09/18/09 01:04 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: gunkie]
Julie Offline

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2082
Loc: SoCal
Zip, Squamish; also agree with Exasperator, and a few others at the Grand Wall base.

Straight Shooter - yes, especially for those of us who can get our fingers in! ;-)

I haven't gotten on Exorcist yet; Dave, is the pro good once you've left the crack? That's what looks scarrry to me.

#47986 - 09/18/09 02:05 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: Julie]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I am shocked no one has yet taken this thread into the bedroom (or dumpster). Just sayin'.

#47987 - 09/18/09 02:55 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: chip]
Frank Florence Offline

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
Exasperator gets a big plus for quality of rock and consistency in climbing .

The 2nd pitch of the Central Pillar of Frenzy is a favorite for location and simply by being less difficult than expected!

#47991 - 09/18/09 04:53 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: Frank Florence]
GOclimb Offline

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2354
Loc: Boston
Airation is the only one of these I've done. It's definitely excellent, though often a little wet.

I've been on Touchstone, and I'd love to try to free the fingers part some day. Seemed absolutely fantastic.

Here's one no-one else has mentioned: Fingers in a Lightsocket, at Indian Creek. Surprisingly not as hard as it looks (or sounds!) right up until the crux. A really nice route.


#48020 - 09/21/09 01:01 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: GOclimb]
Chas Offline

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Exasperator is pretty good, but I think Crime of the Century is probably even better for being a pure finger crack

The following a fairly hard ticks's but the climbing is amazing

Equinox (5.12c) in Joshua Tree. Absolutely beautiful line to slightly overhangfing fingers with technical feet to a jog to the left

Mutiny on the Bounty (5.12a) at Paradise Forks some people stem it but most of us campus between perfect finger locks. Paradise Lost (5.12a) at Paradise Forks consisting of overhanging fingers in a dihedral.

Ruby's Cafe (5.13a) at Indian Creek tight fingers in a double corner change leading to a roof (if you are tall, its much harder then Micah made it look in "Return to Sender". A perfect finger crack (take 2 0.3 blue C4's and 8 0.4 Grey C4's) At an Easier grade in IC is Johnny Cat (5.11d) which is a striking wide finger crack. Annunaki (5.11d/5.12a) ( )is also good (though it goes from hands to fingers) and don't be afraid of the grade since if you work out in a gym it actually climbs like its 5.11b. There is an even better more perfect finger crack there but until I get it all I'll say is that its hard (in the 5.13c/d range), but its a perfect finger crack.

As mentioned Red Zinger (5.11d) in Yosemite is a good finger crack as is the crux pitch of the Rostrum (soft 5.11c) .

Due tgo the nature of perfect finger cracks they tend to have stratospheric grades, but a great finger crack at a more reasonable grade is Gemini Cracks (5.9) on Hammer Dome At Calavaras Dome (in No California). Its gotta be one of my favorite 5.9's.

Edited by Chas (09/21/09 01:23 PM)

#48024 - 09/21/09 02:26 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: whatthegunks]
Lucander Offline

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 223
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Exorcist is tough to get going because you're close to the "ground" (read: granite) but it's okay up high because at Joshua Tree they use these things called bolts. I hear they've taken on well at this chose pile in New Hampshire called Rum-Knee.


#48033 - 09/21/09 06:42 PM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: Lucander]
Julie Offline

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2082
Loc: SoCal
ah, hah, hah.

Yeah, I've rapped over it (Exorcist) and given it a close look; it looks tough off the ground, then there's a good gap between the end of the crack and the bolt protecting the face climbing. What I'm scared of is the transition between crack and face, and the possible splat if I fell before getting to the bolt. It looks like it might be okay.

Edit - another Josh mention - Sail Away.

Edited by Julie (09/21/09 06:51 PM)

#48066 - 09/22/09 12:08 AM Re: Your favorite fingercrack? [Re: Julie]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2952
Loc: LI, NY
how is it possible to have gone this far with no mom jokes?

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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