Shout Box

Who's Online
0 registered (), 2 Guests and 3 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 >
Topic Options
#12766 - 08/20/04 12:48 PM Worthwhile Link-Ups
paborden Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/18/03
Posts: 366
Loc: On the road...
As the weather's should start to turn nice soon, I thought it might be a good time to start another discussion of worthwhile, but little-done, linkups and variations.

Here's one:

On Cheap Thrills, instead of starting on Alley Oop as Williams' suggests, start on Dry Heaves and then traverse over to finish Cheap Thrills normally, thereby linking the cruxes of the two routes. This definately ups the pump factor for this one. Two ropes reccomended. A *** link up.

Top
#12767 - 08/20/04 01:13 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: paborden]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Cheap Thrills is that pumpy 5.10 roof up and to the right of the Aleey Oop/Dry Heaves finish? Yeah that would be a good linkup

Has nyone mentioned Raunchyopath? Do the crux of Raunchy and the little corner, then trend up left to finish on the crux of Osteopath. Two good 5.8 cruxes

RR

Top
#12768 - 08/20/04 02:32 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: RangerRob]
paborden Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/18/03
Posts: 366
Loc: On the road...
RR, you got it right.

I did the Dry Heaves undercling, went up a wee bit, and then traversed immediately right on jugs over to just below the .9R section of Cheap Thrills, then up that and through the roof.

As I said to my partner afterwards, "I haven't made a call that good in a long time." Combined, those two were really superb.


Edited by paborden (08/20/04 02:35 PM)

Top
#12769 - 08/20/04 04:42 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: RangerRob]
Timbo Offline
addict

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 694
Loc: Delaware
Quote:

Has nyone mentioned Raunchyopath? Do the crux of Raunchy and the little corner, then trend up left to finish on the crux of Osteopath. Two good 5.8 cruxes

RR



One of my favorite combos. Been doing that one for years. That finger crack on Osteo is a gem. Too bad it's only 2 moves.
TS
_________________________

Top
#12770 - 08/24/04 02:33 AM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: paborden]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
If we're just listing them, the Select book combines Arch to the GT ledge with the last pitch of Wrist.

One of the books, Swain I guess, recommends the Nose to Fillipina, hitting the crux of each. (I've never done it, can anyone say?)

Drunkards officially ends at the GT Ledge, you can walk 15 feet left and do the last pitch of Maria, giving you two huge 5.6 roofs for the price of one.

Everyone links the Thin Slabs Direct pitch with Thin Slabs, though officially it's the top of On Any Monday.

I notice the Select book puts The Dangler on top of Something Interesting, which makes perfect sense (though presumably it's historically inaccurate).

Swain switches the second pitches of City Lights and Pas de Deux. He has a rationale (the two don't cross then, though they go to the same station), but I think it's stupid. (Switching the upper pitches of The Winter and The Spring, which I think Williams does, confusingly, in the Select, should make sense, I haven't done them, so I can't say.)

CCK Direct officially begins at the GT Ledge, and just about everyone does p1 of Erect Direction to get up to it; not only are the ratings closer (5.8/5.9, instead of 5.5/5.9), but it substitutes a wonderful pitch for a pretty lousy one.

There are any number of linkups in the Twilight Zone / Andrew area, eg Silhouette to Traverse of the Clods.

Top
#12771 - 08/24/04 05:13 AM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: Steven Cherry]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

Drunkards officially ends at the GT Ledge,...



According to who? There's the original 3rd pitch of Drunkards that has a 5.7-ish move with so-so pro after a kinda-long runout. There's also the 9++ variant that goes out the large roof to climbers left of the top of DD's 2nd pitch, joining the final crack on Sixish over the roof.

Quote:

I notice the Select book puts The Dangler on top of Something Interesting, which makes perfect sense (though presumably it's historically inaccurate).



Yep, The Dangler was put in as a variant long after the orginal 3rd pitch of Something Interesting, which has a balancy 5.7+ section just above the GT, with poor wires for pro and a bad landing. The original SI variant, which also pre-dates Dangler is going up the Three Pines corner above the GT, rejoining the SI p3 after the roof.
_________________________
- Marc

Top
#12772 - 08/25/04 11:18 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: MarcC]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
Yikes. Sorry for the misinfo on Drunkards, I guess I've never looked in the book and it was just What I Was Told.

Anyway, I think the two-5.6-roof linkup with Maria p3 is still a nice way to go.

Top
#12773 - 08/26/04 11:35 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: Steven Cherry]
Timbo Offline
addict

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 694
Loc: Delaware
Quote:


One of the books, Swain I guess, recommends the Nose to Fillipina, hitting the crux of each. (I've never done it, can anyone say?)




Yep. It sucked. The Nose was really nice, but Filipina got dirtier and dirtier to the point it was a grunge fest not far into P2. It was a long time ago, so maybe we were off route ???




Drunkards officially ends at the GT Ledge, you can walk 15 feet left and do the last pitch of Maria, giving you two huge 5.6 roofs for the price of one.




Actually, except for avoiding the horizontal tree, the third pitch of Drunkards is quite good. Fairly clean with a nice exit move.

Anyone done the Williams recommended link up of P1 of Sleepwalk and P2 of Cool Hand Dukes? We tried it a few years back and the Dukes pitch got pretty loose and seemed way hard for 5.8. We backed off.

TS
_________________________

Top
#12774 - 09/20/04 08:19 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: Timbo]
Anonymous
Unregistered


tiers of fears into no man's land. this is more in the nature of "required link-up" since the tiers of fears anchor is truly grim. after pulling the tiers of fears crux you still get to do all the pumpy fiddling with rp's at the end of no man's land...quality!

Top
#12775 - 05/01/06 04:41 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: Timbo]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
I did The Nose/Fillipina link-up last year and thought it was worthwhile. I thought the Fillipina crux was sketchy if you don't hang out to get gear, but G once you do, leading to a pleasant and exciting enough Gunks-type overhang haul.

Another link-up on the moderate end: p1 of Hans' Puss to p2 of Proctoscope. Some spooky 5.7 to bolts, then a typical 5.8 Gunks overhang. I thought it was worth doing, and no one was on it yesterday despite the crowds on the Arrow wall. Hans' Scope? Proctopuss?

(By the way, does anyone NOT get lost on Hans' Puss? )

Top
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 >


Moderator:  Mike Rawdon, Steven Cherry 
Sponsored