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#48419 - 10/07/09 02:15 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: quanto_the_mad]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3629
Loc: Ulster County, NY
HOLY SHIT PEOPLE!!!! For Christs sake either use them or don't use them, then get over it! go climb something

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#48420 - 10/07/09 02:20 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: quanto_the_mad]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
NICE corpo speak from Metolius! TL;DR

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#48425 - 10/07/09 02:56 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: pedestrian]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2025
Loc: SoCal
Well, it hella beats the responses from CCH (which were another nail in their coffin).

Thanks for posting that, Ian.

Scott and I have been using C3s, and they have their pros and cons. After discussion here about ranges, I picked up a blue Metolius mastercam(?) that most closely matches the green alien, and am really really liking it.

Q, I think the issue with the non-clamped plates was that the trigger bar itself got caught up on the plate, causing the lobe retraction. That's a danger for pretty much any cam.

Aric - I must have mis-remembered something you'd posted a while back about being a stay-at-home dad without the kid but expecting that to change soon. Sorry if I inferred an impending incoming!

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#48427 - 10/07/09 03:05 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: Julie]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Originally Posted By: Julie
That's a danger for pretty much any cam.


Umm, no. Show me another cam where that can happen. Trigger design on Master Cam is very different from anything else I've ever seen.

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#48428 - 10/07/09 03:06 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: pedestrian]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2025
Loc: SoCal
you're right - I was just watching those videos again (need more coffee, too). Hrm. It's much clearer in the second one - in the first one, it could have been a result of leverage from the trigger bar.

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#48430 - 10/07/09 03:58 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: RangerRob]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2555
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
HOLY SHIT PEOPLE!!!! For Christs sake either use them or don't use them, then get over it! go climb something


Thank you, Rob. Your response was cogent and appropriate and in keeping with your previous posts. The man has spoken. Of course, the continuation of this thread has been a useful diversion from actual work, which I would miss.

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#48432 - 10/07/09 04:13 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: Julie]
Mark Heyman Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1081
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
Originally Posted By: Julie
Well, it hella beats the responses from CCH (which were another nail in their coffin).



It certainly does despite what I am about to write!

Originally Posted By: ianmanger
Originally Posted By: ianmanger

Thread is here. Post 177
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2182703#2182703

Quote:
alright folks, here's Metolius's Official Response regarding this thread... The response below was requested by It is our understanding that this forum is intended to be a venue for discussion by individual climbers… We feel it is generally inappropriate for us as a manufacturer to participate.


BS: NO! Manufactures are welcome to respond I will write Metolius today of how disapointing this response is.

Quote:
One positive thing these tests indicate is that cams don't seem to work very well in expanding cracks.


Whoa. What? Isn't that exactly what cams are supposed to be best at - assuming the crack isn't a breakable flake? Yeah I know that's the expandable kind, still?

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#48433 - 10/07/09 05:10 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: Mark Heyman]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 120
Loc: gardiner
Aric - thank you for the additional info, it is appreciated and I look forward to your further efforts.

Julie's earlier post was my source about your non-new addition, which reinforces why we should be careful about secondary sources, albeit on a much less dangerous issue (unless your wife read the post and got the wrong idea) wink

and the metolius thread, which I havent followed closely, reinforces why some people will continue to value controlled testing done properly as part of our decision process

what is the over/under for aliens at the swap on sunday?

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#48437 - 10/07/09 07:08 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: wombat]
adatesman Offline
member

Registered: 07/13/05
Posts: 102
Loc: Philadelphia
No worries Julie, as you are right in a sense... we're looking to adopt and are currently waiting to be matched, so there is a baby in the pipeline somewhere. :-)

-a.

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#48442 - 10/07/09 11:13 PM Re: More Alien failures [Re: adatesman]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3629
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Anytime Chip

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