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#50354 - 01/25/10 08:49 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: Chas]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
Hey Rob, nice job getting on Repentece. I'm 1 for 5 so far as well. Got purgatory two weeks ago but haven't been to the kitchen yet or up to chapel pond at all yet this year. Early in the year I set a list of climbs but as the season goes on I find myself wanting to get on so many other things that each day brings a new ticklist.
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#50356 - 01/25/10 09:20 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: pitfall]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I need to add one to the list. Last time at Chapel Pond I spied a beautiful line between the Powerplay wall and the entrance to the Canyon. It is a long, right trending gully/crack system. Looks like it ends with a fist size crack or wider on a vertical headwall after about 120 feet or so of mixed chimney/gully climbing. I have no idea what it is called, but it looks fabulous.

Nice job on Purgatory! How did it protect? Was the ice on top good?

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#50377 - 01/26/10 09:03 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: RangerRob]
Jim Lawyer Offline
member

Registered: 08/23/00
Posts: 157
Loc: Pompey, NY
RR -- I believe the line you describe (right-trending gully/crack system) is on the right side of the Spike wall and called "As You Like It" (page 61 of Blue Lines). There's not much pro down low and there are several exciting finishes.

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#50381 - 01/27/10 04:22 AM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: Jim Lawyer]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
Rob- Purgatory, for good or bad, has bolts and I was not too proud to use them. Granted they are not exactly close together in spots but they'll keep you off the ground. It'll take an assortment of cams from .4-2" but most of those spots were covered in ice or near bolts (go figure). It was certainly in easier than normal condition (grade Smike 3/3-) so I suppose I still need to do it for real...in normal condition and without the bolts.
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#50385 - 01/27/10 02:59 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: pitfall]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Hey RR, don't you still need to do the 3rd pitch of Repentece? sick (just saying) I mean hell I need to do all 3...

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#50399 - 01/27/10 10:45 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: Smike]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Why yes Mike I do. And seeing how you need to do pitches 1 and 2, why don't we head up therer sometime soon...like next week

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#50400 - 01/27/10 10:50 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: RangerRob]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Jim, thanks for that beta. Someone had told me the line might be called that. I was looking at following the main hand/fist crack all the way. It sure looks steep up there, but fun! One of the great things about not ever having a guidebook for the area is that everything is exciting when you first get on it. I did a direct finish to Dances With Darkness this way last year. We had no idea what it was, but it sure looked cool. We climbed the roof straight out of the cave, which Horner told me later is not the way the established route goes. It sure was fun getting my ass spanked on it.

RR

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#50421 - 01/29/10 03:15 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: RangerRob]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
Hey Rob, if Mikey doesn't want to go and you want to head up wed/thurs, I might be available.
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#50430 - 01/30/10 08:12 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: pitfall]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Sorry, but I gotta work Thursday, otherwise I would take you up on it.

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#50469 - 02/05/10 03:36 AM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: RangerRob]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
So I still stand at 1 for 5. The advocate had three options today and I tried thee steepest since it looked like it might take the best screws from the ground. Two hangs later, it is still on my list. BTW- Instant Karma looks almost feasible...almost. Actually, just sac up and have at it, she's good to go. It's been led thinner. Hell, it's probably been led this week! The kitchen will be in good shape by next week. Who's free thursday?
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