I was thinking about trying to do the Diagonal route on Wallface in the Spring, and I am looking for guidance as to how early in the year is reasonable for such an effort. Is April ridiculous? I know the highest of the High Peaks may still have snow on them then, but Wallface isn't that high, right? And the trails will be muddy. But the flies won't be bad yet....

Is May more reasonable?

Thanks for any advice.

Flies can be fierce already in May. Since folks climb Diagonal in the winter, I suppose it's never too early. But, for the record, I found ice at the base of Wallface on July 4th w/e many years ago. So spring doesn't exactly come early there. (OK, actually the ice was further down, in the boulders of the pass)

You are right, Seth, that you can beat the flies most times in April. I suggest you look for a day when the trail might be superficially frozen in the morning to at least ease the walk in. The stream you follow for part of the approach can roar pretty well in the spring when there is rapid melt and may not be passable.

Okay, what about late October or November, then? I was thinking I'd missed the season for it already with the days getting shorter and shorter but maybe November would be better than April?

By the way, I was assuming I'd hike in in the afternoon and camp, and then hit the wall at first light. I want to maximize my chances of actually finishing the climb.

I think the white stuff has already started to fly up in the peaks. I'm sure you can still find a sunny day to get it done before the snowpack comes in, but don't wait much longer. I'm thinking like...today.

October might be better than April. November might not. Like RR says, go...today.
If you camp close to the wall, start promptly in the morning, pick a nice day, AND don't get lost, you'll be absolutely fine this month. Nice leaf season there now too.
Try calling the rangers about trail conditions / snow / etc. if you're worried.

I've hit snow pack at just over 3,000' and above around early May. Don't waste you time in spring waiting for the snow to melt and the bugs to hatch (They can almost overlap) Due it in winter.

late fall. i went in summer and it sucked. if you go after the frost, some of the grass and shit on the bottom pitches might actually be frozen and less miserable. i thought it was alot of work for minimal return, but it certainly made the beer back in lake placid taste amazing!

Due it in Winter if you like the mixed alpine thing. It makes the Diagonal a classic big route for the northeast. Just my opinion

does it ice up much? i would imagine the last pitch stays clear though which makes for a pretty stout boot and glove climb. does snow pile up on the slab waiting for a climber to kick off a slide?

the approach from the trail to the climb must be a bit of a slog, were you able to use skis or just posthole?

could be a cool outing

I'm not sure but I think that area is still considered high peaks and so you have to snowshoe or ski approach by law.

lakeplacid.com/shared/whattodo/conditions-xc.cfm

The website above reports snow and ice to be found above 3ooo ft. The current report is dated 10/23. I believe that at this time, the use of snow shoes or skis is triggered by snow depth, not a specific date. However, if one was to do a bonafide winter ascent, then the use of snow shoes or skis would be a given come 12/21 or whenever winter actually begins. Enjoy. RC

Womby....the two upper pitches were covered in about 1/2 inch of verglas when my partner and I did it. So we aided them. I actually think we were off left of the main route, but it was all the same..hacking out nut placements. The ramp was big, fat, and blue cruiser grade 2+ ice. the first two picthes getting to the ramp were full on, throw down, grade 3/M something. Really fun. I would do this again and see if I could improve on our time. I think it took us ALL day. We wrapped off after sunset.

Wrapped, Rob, _W_ freakin WRAPPED? WTF?

Wow! Smikey is wearing off on me

It's sorta like swine flu!

I think I caught it when I sipped the Jameson out of his flask last winter.