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#48200 - 09/30/09 10:39 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: wombat]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
wombat-

The way I have done this route, twice now, is to start way over by Lady's Lament (correct name? It's the next vertical crack to the right) and traverse left, instead of starting down in the Nose corner. This puts you into an awkward dihedral, near a bush, below another traverse (well, it's a traverse if you include the optional belay out on the perch.)

First time, back in 2006 I climbed WAY straight up the corner past the abovementioned bush, (this turns into another route if you don't try to go left) and then I headed left, and as I mentioned in my post back then, the holds ran out.


Edited by pedestrian (09/30/09 10:48 PM)

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#48227 - 10/01/09 06:38 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: pedestrian]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 147
Loc: gardiner
gotcha - i broke left past the bush, into a shallow right corner with a rusty pin which is basically right under the "parallel cracks" roof. I ended up doing the traverse to a hanging belay from the vertical crack left of the nose arete. if you manage the rope drag better with doubles, you could make it upto the anchor on top with a 5.7-8 rating.

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#48229 - 10/01/09 06:52 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: wombat]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Okay....since we are talking about The Nose area, How about this....
Start in the Nose corner, where The Nose traverse starts going left, stay in the corner, following it up and into a right hand traverse. Pass a tat of slings, and belay on the perch out right. 5.7. Finish on the second pitch of Boldville, which is WILD 5.6. I don't know if this corner actually has a name, but it's a great way to get to the incredible second pitch of Boldville without leading 8+.

Another good linkup is to do the first pitch of Land of The Giants at 5.7, then finish on Fat City. If you can't yet pull the 10.d crux on Fat City Direct, this is a nicer way to get to the belay anchors.

This one seems pretty obvious, but the first pitch of Transcon into the the second pitch of Birdland.

RR

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#48238 - 10/01/09 09:49 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: RangerRob]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 147
Loc: gardiner
i love boldville but have Tr'd The Winter rather than continuing up. I will try that RR. Boldville is 8+?

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#48240 - 10/01/09 11:20 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: wombat]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
You know I get confused around there which second pitches are which. Yes the first pitch is 8+. The second pitch traverses far left to the aformentioned perch, then goes up and out the obvious roof system above....at 5.6. That's why I was suggesting doing that 5.7 corner between Filipina and The Nose. It's a more natural link up.

The second pitch of the Winter looks interesting. If I am correct, it is the logical extension of the Spring corner system, above The Spring's first pitch. The second pitch of the Spring traverses right and climbs the roofs above the first pitch of the Winter. I tried it once and it looks like committing 5.10bish. Not sure why they swap second pitches.

RR

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#48246 - 10/02/09 12:32 AM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: RangerRob]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
I think maybe being shorter makes Boldville easier? I thought it was easy for an 8, and delicate footwork isn't really my strong suit.
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#48971 - 10/26/09 01:57 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: quanto_the_mad]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 147
Loc: gardiner
did the RR suggested triple linkup which was really quite fun. i would suggest Nosey Filippinaville as a name and highly recommend it at 5.7

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#48977 - 10/26/09 04:35 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: wombat]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Filipina picked my nose in Boldville

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#49086 - 10/30/09 12:47 AM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: RangerRob]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 224
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Near Trapps:

Dog-Stick-Ridge is an outstanding 5.8 way to the top of the nears that weaves its way through improbable terrain in two varied pitches. You get great moderate climbing in the open book of Hounds, the easy fun corner that makes p. 2 of Fat Stick, and a fun layback that's part of Generation Gap...all in one pitch that ends on a small but very cool stance with a gear anchor. The second pitch takes a wild finger traverse to the arete of Yellow Ridge, witch you take to the top.

Ranger Rob once told me that p. 1 of Land of Giants to p. 2 of Fat City Direct is also a worthwhile link up.

DL

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#49089 - 10/30/09 02:13 AM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: Lucander]
Bill Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/18/03
Posts: 85
Loc: Mass Land
DL --- Glad to see someone else seemed to enjoyed Dog-Stick-Ridge as much as I did. Looking forward to leading the first pitch which I followed on my first trip up it earlier this year. The second pitch is really a tremendous hoot! --- Bill

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