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#4914 - 06/23/02 11:52 PM 10 pitch sport climb??
Dominic Offline
journeyman

Registered: 11/01/01
Posts: 68
Loc: Troy NY


Well its about road trip time this year. I get all of august!!!! wooo!
Anyway just starting to plan stuff but i had one particular interest, that i dont really know where to start looking. i was looking for a 10 pitch sport climb ( somewhere beween 5.8 and 5.10) anywhere in the US or Canada. Any ideas. i had heard something of the sort in canada but i cant recollect where. anyone know. thanks!

Dominic

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#4915 - 06/24/02 01:31 AM Re: 10 pitch sport climb?? [Re: Dominic]
powpierre Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/28/01
Posts: 56
Loc: reno,nv
you maybe thinking of Chinamens peak outside of Cranmore Canada. West of Calgary and just south of Banff National Park. I remember an article about several routes in the 10's on the peak, all long. They are also included in Sport Climbs of the canadian rockies atleast sisyphus 10d is. best of luck 21 pitches. there were others in the R&I article

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#4916 - 06/24/02 02:22 AM Re: 10 pitch sport climb?? [Re: Dominic]
daryl512 Offline

veteran

Registered: 10/07/00
Posts: 1256
Loc: Rochester, NY
You haven't asked for it but have you considered Mexico? El Portrero Chico is fairly close to the border if I remember and there are tons of looong multi-pitch sport climbs there.

Daryl
_________________________
At this point in my life I should be daryl5.3 not daryl512

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#4917 - 06/24/02 02:23 AM Re: 10 pitch sport climb?? [Re: powpierre]
tokyo bill Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/24/00
Posts: 793
Loc: Tokyo
Yup. Article is in R&I No. 109 - June/July 2001.

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#4918 - 06/24/02 07:16 PM Re: 10 pitch sport climb?? [Re: Dominic]
alicex4 Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/05/00
Posts: 3400
What about Squamish and Whistler? Thailand?

I know the Potrero has what you want, but it will be HOT! Jan-Feb is usually the ticket there.

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#4919 - 06/24/02 07:32 PM Re: 10 pitch sport climb?? [Re: Dominic]
alicex4 Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/05/00
Posts: 3400
What about Red Rocks NV? Tons of multi-pitch in the canyons. Not sure if it's all trad though. Do you place gear at all?

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#4920 - 06/24/02 09:10 PM Re: 10 pitch sport climb?? [Re: alicex4]
cori Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/20/01
Posts: 1357
Some are bolted, some are trad. Not sure of the number of pitches on Prince of Darkness, but I think many of the bolted ones I can think of are a bit under 10 pitches.

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#4921 - 06/24/02 09:13 PM Re: 10 pitch sport climb?? [Re: cori]
Dominic Offline
journeyman

Registered: 11/01/01
Posts: 68
Loc: Troy NY
Ill have to look into Nevada.... I usually do trad ( 5.8 Gunks) but i dont like doing really long stuff, feels too commiting to me. i was looking at something moderate i could run up and sport seemed like the way to do it.

Potrero looks muy hot this time of year, ill keep looking!!

Dominic

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#4922 - 06/24/02 09:18 PM Re: 10 pitch sport climb?? [Re: Dominic]
cori Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/20/01
Posts: 1357
If you like easy and bolts are not a requirement, there is Lakeview on Cannon which is not very hard. I think two of the eight pitches are roped hiking. It is very nice and a cool place to be in the summer. There are a few other lower grade climbs there, too.

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#4923 - 06/25/02 07:04 PM Re: 10 pitch sport climb?? [Re: Dominic]
Anonymous
Unregistered


For long sport climbs in the east, there's always poko. It's got kind of a rep for scary routes, which is largely unfounded on the newer routes, but they start at 5.10 for the most part--there are a few really good 10's there, some that involve only the occaisional gear placement. Also, the south wall at whitehorse has some pretty sporto 10's, including last unicorn and science friction wall. Potrero and red rocks are both hotter than a...they'll be really hot in summer. There are some long (500'+) sport climbs on the limestone areas outside of Vegas though, that are much cooler--One in particular follows the line of the ice route "vegas hose-monster", but it's like 11c. Wasn't there an article in one of the climbing mags recently about long clip-ups?? Not too many in the 5.10 and under range that really qualify as sport climbs, and most of those were in winter-only climbing areas.

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#4924 - 06/25/02 11:39 PM Re: 10 pitch sport climb??
Anonymous
Unregistered


Prince of Darkness has about 6 pitches and needs a ton of quickdraws to complete (I didn't climb it, but a friend nearly ran out). I don't think there are many other routes beyond 6 pitches that are sport only. There are a few other longer routes but it will be a mix climb. Unless you are super ballsy and like long runouts. I would look at other climbs around Prince of Darkness in the Black Velvet canyon area for the sport climbs

jeff

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