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#49442 - 11/10/09 07:22 AM Millbrook's bottom tier cliffs
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
Has anybody really checked out the lower tier cliffs at Millbrook? Just looking at the cliff photos in Williams' blue guide; there's a lot of rock down there. Aside from the obvious issues of ownership and legality. I'm just curious, could some worthwhile climbing be found there? Or is it really that bad or uninteresting?

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#49444 - 11/10/09 11:26 AM Re: Millbrook's bottom tier cliffs [Re: Alex]
oenophore Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5968
Loc: 212 land
If anyone would know about that, he'd be Rich Romano.
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#49456 - 11/10/09 04:23 PM Re: Millbrook's bottom tier cliffs [Re: oenophore]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
The bottom third is fine rock but has always been avoided, at least publicly, due to ownership concerns. It was felt that the private property extended up the cliff and that avoiding the bottom third kept the climber on Preserve land. I have no idea if there is any legal truth to this, but I'm sure Dick and Rich know the real scoop.

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#49467 - 11/10/09 08:45 PM Re: Millbrook's bottom tier cliffs [Re: chip]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I don't know the real scoop, but the deeds typically read "to the highest point of land," so I am positive that there is no situation in which a landowner owns the bottom third of the cliff and not also the part above it.

In fact, that bottom third is extremely dirty, loose, and almost always easy (I say this from having climbed up it BITD when certain landowners let us approach from the bottom.) I guess there might be a touch of interesting climbing on it somewhere if someone wanted to do a massive cleaning project, but I can't conceive of anyone wanting to bother, given the vast resources of much better rock available elsewhere in the Gunks.

So as far as I know, the avoidance of the bottom part has been because there came a time when there was no access from the bottom of the cliff any more and no one in their right mind, having appraoched from the top, would be interested in rappelling down that bottom part in order to climb back up it.

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#49468 - 11/10/09 09:54 PM Re: Millbrook's bottom tier cliffs [Re: rg@ofmc]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Thanks Rich.

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#49505 - 11/12/09 09:33 PM Re: Millbrook's bottom tier cliffs [Re: chip]
gunkie Offline
member

Registered: 07/19/00
Posts: 120
Loc: New Hope, PA
I believe Fritz Weissner 1st climbed Old Route from the very bottom of the cliff. I also understood that the first few routes to be pioneered at Millbrook were climbed from the very bottom of the crag. That's probably close to a 400' cliff face.

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#49508 - 11/12/09 09:46 PM Re: Millbrook's bottom tier cliffs [Re: gunkie]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
Originally Posted By: gunkie
I believe Fritz Weissner 1st climbed Old Route from the very bottom of the cliff. I also understood that the first few routes to be pioneered at Millbrook were climbed from the very bottom of the crag. That's probably close to a 400' cliff face.


wrong Fritz traversed in from the left side
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#49519 - 11/13/09 06:15 PM Re: Millbrook's bottom tier cliffs [Re: rg@ofmc]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
Okay Rich; dirty, loose and easy is the answer I was looking for. Dirty and loose isn't necessarily discouraging to me, but combined with easy; my curiosity is gone.
By the way, is that the same story for the Bayards too? Or is there any interest hidden amongst the dirty, loose and easy? If I recall, weren't there a couple named routes in the Bayards of long ago?

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#49520 - 11/13/09 06:28 PM Re: Millbrook's bottom tier cliffs [Re: Alex]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Alex, I did suggest there might be something harder down there. I've climbed up the bottom section, I don't know, maybe 5-10 times, starting below whatever route we wanted to do, and almost always without roping up, so I certainly wasn't looking for difficulty. But the nature of what we did do and the fact that we did it at various locations along the length of the cliff does suggest that any difficult sections might be very localized with climbing that might be fairly contrived.

There is some good stuff at Bayards and more to be done, but access is now restricted and I don't know if there is anything legally available.

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#49522 - 11/13/09 06:48 PM Re: Millbrook's bottom tier cliffs [Re: rg@ofmc]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2954
Loc: LI, NY
Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
... access is now restricted and I don't know if there is anything legally available.



Kent? KEEEEEEENNNNTT?
here boy!!! Kent!!!!
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