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#4988 - 07/02/02 04:57 PM adirondacks/vermont routes?

I'm new to the area from Co., and can't make it down to the gunks much. I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions for the best routes in the adirondacks and northern vermont, mostly in the 5.10-11+ range, the longer, the better. I have the guidebook, but everyone I talk to says it's better to talk to others as far as quality and specific beta. Thanks.

#4989 - 07/03/02 12:03 AM Re: adirondacks/vermont routes?
danskiz Offline

Registered: 12/07/01
Posts: 244
Loc: Jamestown ny
I cant help you with vermont, but the dacks I can. Poko has some of the best long climbs in the dacks. about 600 feet at the highest, and the best 5.10 in the east, The Fastest Gun, at least thats what I have been told. I still havn't gotten on it, so many climbs so little time. The biggest problem with poko is the crowds, theres a campground right at the base of the cliff, so the approach is hardly anything. Wallface at about 800 feet at the tallest, is nice if you like having the whole cliff to yourself. but you also have to like bushwacking, loose rock, and the 5 mile approach. I think the best and steepest pure crack climbing in the dacks is at the spiders web. Its only about 150 feet at the tallest, but the climbing is unbelievable. The left section of the cliff is awesome. Slightly overhanging, perfectly flat and smooth, with splitter cracks that go from the bottom clear to the top. The approach is a huge talus field under the cliff, and is not bad. Theres free camping on the other side of the road, and theres usually only a few if any other climbers there.

#4990 - 07/03/02 12:40 AM Re: adirondacks/vermont routes?
Jim Lawyer Offline

Registered: 08/23/00
Posts: 157
Loc: Pompey, NY
danskit has some good advice about Poko and the Web.

At Poko, in the 10+/11 range, get the guidebook and just look for anything that's recommended -- Fastest Gun, Freedom Flight, Southern Hospitality, The Gathering, and so on. These are all awesome routes. I'd add Moss Cliff to your list as well.

In Vermont, check out the new long routes on Elephants Head in Smuggler's Notch...these are 4+ pitches long and in the 11 range and (I hear) unbelievable.

#4991 - 07/03/02 02:43 AM Re: adirondacks/vermont routes?
Edgy Offline

Registered: 12/17/00
Posts: 393

Good luck in getting any info from the natives about climbing in VT. With how tight-lipped those Green Mountain boys are...there must be some pretty good climbing up in the northern part of the state that they aren't talking about....

I've tried everything I could think of to get them to talk....Otter Creek beer. bootleg Phish tapes, Rasta offerings....mon, heck...we even tried a drum circle.... they remained silent.

Personally, if I were looking to do new routes in VT, I'd be looking at the buttresses of dry, solid rock that are between the ice climbs at places like Lake Willoughby or Smugglers.

In NY, as Dankidz said, Poko is your best's a big cliff, with long routes. I've been impressed with Spider Web Wall.... it's smaller than Poko, about 150' only, but with steep crack climbing. It's mostly overhanging, and a lot steeper than anything else I'd been on in the 'Daks.... "Do, Drop, or Fly" is a Henry Barber classic.

Welcome to the east coast...

ed e

#4992 - 07/03/02 01:03 PM Re: adirondacks/vermont routes?
Dizzy Offline

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 2177
Loc: Berkshires, MA and Ahlington, ...
I almost hate to say this but check out Stewart Greene's New England Guide. There are some listings for VT but I'm quite sure that it's not even a drop in the bucket.

You may also get some beta privately from Will Mayo. Look him up using the User List button at the top of the discussion page. I'm not sure if he can be pursuaded, but I'm pretty sure he's a local up there.

I can handle reality in small doses, but as a lifestyle it's way too confining
-Lily Tomlin

#4993 - 07/03/02 01:47 PM Re: adirondacks/vermont routes? [Re: Dizzy]
Layback Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 816
Loc: Monroe, WA
You might try talking to some of the folks at Petra Cliffs (, the idoor climbing gym in Burlington, VT. Another helpful source for beta would be Climb High ( in Shelbourne.

My folks bought a house in VT a few years ago and I started doing some research, but soon realized that I was going to be spending enough time up there to make uncovering hidden gems worthwhile. This is where I started.
- Joe

#4994 - 07/03/02 04:23 PM Re: adirondacks/vermont routes? [Re: Layback]
CaptainNoPro Offline

Registered: 10/24/00
Posts: 228
Loc: Northern VT
There's some stuff in vermont. Not too high, but the rock is plentiful although a lot of it is chossy schist. Stewart Greene's
book is laughable for Vt. He describes about 5% of the climbing in the state. THe one issue is access. That is why the
locals are tight lipped many of the crags are on private land or you must cross private land to get to crags.
I'll push you in the right direction with a few hints :
Smuggler's Notch is an obvious destination. Real nice bouldering. The long routes look sketchy though, but I hear they
are good.
Wheeler Mtn.(lake willoughby) - Great Dihedral 5.11c. plus tons of other routes and potential. In the Greene guide.
Bolton Notch - Drive this road and you will be pleasantly suprised.

If you climb ice, VT is the state to be in.

#4995 - 07/04/02 10:06 AM Re: adirondacks/vermont routes?
kevin boyle Offline

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 276
Loc: NY, Westport

It looks like you've got some solid advice to get started. If you are looking for a parner, drop me a private message at this site. I'd be glad to show you around Poke-O and do some routes with you. I am a local in the Daks.


#4996 - 07/04/02 12:54 PM Re: adirondacks/vermont routes?
superfli137 Offline

Registered: 09/28/00
Posts: 191
Loc: Portland, OR
If youre willing to drive from northern vermont to the daks, you might as well drive to NH and climb at cannon, whitehorse ledge, cathedral ledge, rumney, etc... Awesome rock all over the state. Im getting used to driving from the daks to burlington to pick up my girlfriend / partner.
Also, Ive never been there myself but Ive been told there is some decent climbing in bolton.

#4997 - 07/05/02 07:58 PM Re: adirondacks/vermont routes? [Re: superfli137]

Thanks. I'll be spending a month in plattsburgh this summer, and I have a friend in vermont, so he may have the beta there--thanks for all the help with route suggestions!

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