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#51750 - 05/01/10 02:07 AM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: chip]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Welll......how did it go??

For me, I only ticked off one of the things on that list, and even that I failed to climb completely, having bailed off the last pitch of Repentence in the dark. However, all of the climbing I did in the Catskills this past season was on ground i hadn;t been on before. That included Two trips up Buttermilk Falls for various project, a few days on the ast side of Stony Clove, doing lines north of the playground.

In the Adirondacks I did a bunch of stuff I had never done before. Names are mostly unknown to me, but I did manage to eye a line at Chapel Pond that looked friggin awesome, find out what it was, and climb it with two locals two weekends later. Turns out the name of the route was "As You Like it" ( I think it was anyway). When we got on it was after the big thaw they had, and it was significantly thin on P2, making it mostly dry tooling on vertical to overhanging and very exposed rock, which led to a final vertical pillar to top out. Wild ride!!!P1 was a long, tight, thin groove. Think White Line Fever on acid. Very little ice in the corner. Was pretty cool. I just wish I didn't have a hangover from the scotch party we had at the Ausable Inn the night before.

So, how was everyone elses season? Kathy....how did the limp noodle arms do this past year?

RR

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#51758 - 05/01/10 11:09 AM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: RangerRob]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
T'was a good season for me. I got in almost 30 days on ice (OK, so many of them were just a few hours after work), led some thin stuff (Neurosis) as well as some steep stuff.

And if Kathy's too modest to admit it, her noodle arms did great, and she upped her leading significantly.

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#51774 - 05/02/10 04:12 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
KathyS Offline
member

Registered: 01/10/08
Posts: 196
Loc: NY, USA
I'm living proof that if you set your expectations low enough, you're seldom disapointed. My main goals this season were to climb as much as possible and maybe lead a few 2's and easy 3's. I didn't keep track of ice days, but got out whenever there was ice in Dec, 1-2x/week in Jan and Feb, and a few more days after a week in Red Rocks in early March. I succeeded spectactularly in my plan to convert two of my rock climbing partners, Jay and MikeB, into ice climbers. Jay is already leading 3's confidently. We swung leads on Chouinard's and Chouinard's Right on one of my few trips to the Dacks this year. There was just too much good ice in the Cats to justify the long drive.

I first exceeded my lead goals on a trip to Hillyer in January with Jay and AOC. Al lead the 1st pitch and suggested I take the 2nd. It was 3+, and it looked like there was half a stance to place a screw midway up the steep, but stem-able section. It's easy to say, "I can do that," standing on terra firma, listening to Al's quietly confident encouragement. It's another when you are in the thick of things well above your last piece and can't get a screw to start. I downclimbed to the last good stance, rested and placed a another screw as far as I could reach above the original one I'd placed from there. I knew the route was well within my ability to climb and managed to send it on the 2nd try. This came as a surprise to Jay, who knows I am a colossal chicken and who fully expected me to back off of it entirely.

Fast forward about a month. Jay, MikeB and I went to Stoney Clove West on a cold and blustery day. I'd already done a lot of the routes toward the north end, so we explored to the south. The first good route we came to was the Gurgler, which Jay lead. MikeB did well, inspite of very few days on ice. After that, we continued south. The Curtain was in with climbers on the 2nd pitch, but we all agreed that was too stout a lead for any of us.

We stopped at the next flow of ice we came to that looked fat enough to climb, which we would later identify as Stage Fright, W4, but we didn't open the guidebook at the time. It looked fairly steep at the bottom, but had what appeared to be a good rest 2/3's of the way up, followed by another steep section. There were some significant drips on the far left, but plenty of dry ice to climb. I could tell Jay was itching to lead this too (I swear he'd rather lead than eat or sleep), but he allowed me the choice since it was, in theory, my turn. I knew he was expecting me to chicken out, and that it would be stout, but I also knew it was within my ability to climb (I figured it was a 3+, but didn't check the guidebook). I'd said I'd take it. How is it that at 48, I'm still bowing to peer pressure?

The ice was thin enough that I left my long screws on the ground, taking only my 6 mediums and two shorts. Midway up the steep section, I had trouble starting one of the screws, put it away and dropped a 2nd before finally placing the 3rd. My calves were screaming. Focus, focus. It was steeper than it had looked from the ground (isn't it always?). I continued up with the adrenalin rushing by the time I reached the so-so stance 2/3's of the way up. It was there that I realized not one, but both of my remaining medium screws were dull. Jay had probably touched rock on the Gurgler without realizing it. The ice had been a little thin in a couple spots. I worked and worked trying to get one in the more pithy, aerated ice on the upper section. No dice. I spent considerable time talking myself out of panicing. Downclimbing from where I was looked terrifying and would have taken a lot of strength and energy. I didn't feel comfortable placing the two shorties in the so-so ice in front of me and being lowered off. I had no way of making a v-thread. I just wanted to get to the top. I wanted to be back on the ground. I wanted to be anywhere but where I was. I wanted my mommy. The guys told me later they knew things were serious when I stopped talking to myself and got very quiet. They stopped shouting encouragement and fell silent, too, though I was far too busy to notice. I realized my best way out was up. Focus, focus. A sharp 13cm screw started easily in a slightly better piece of ice off to the right. The last one went in midway up the final stretch, and I was a little runout to the top. Fortunately, there was frozen dirt, rather than the usual loose rock on top. I swung one pick hard into the dirt. Good stick. Hooked a small tree with the other and crested the top. Yahoo!

Heart still pounding, I set up a top rope anchor and lowered off to let the guys climb. Afterward, Jay admitted he might have had difficulty had he led. He hadn't yet learned to shake his arms out early and often, and confessed he may have pumped out.

It was a while after that before I felt like leading anything again. Had I known in advance that route was W4, I almost certainly would not have led it, even though I was capable of it. I realize now that it's my noodly noodle, and not my weenie arms that have become my limiting factor. I'd give a cookie for a good lead head. I guess that will be next season's project.


Edited by KathyS (05/03/10 12:26 AM)
Edit Reason: extra words

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#51777 - 05/02/10 07:09 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: RangerRob]
AOR Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/27/04
Posts: 392
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Welll......how did it go??

For me, I only ticked off one of the things on that list, and even that I failed to climb completely, having bailed off the last pitch of Repentence in the dark. However, all of the climbing I did in the Catskills this past season was on ground i hadn;t been on before. That included Two trips up Buttermilk Falls for various project, a few days on the ast side of Stony Clove, doing lines north of the playground.

In the Adirondacks I did a bunch of stuff I had never done before. Names are mostly unknown to me, but I did manage to eye a line at Chapel Pond that looked friggin awesome, find out what it was, and climb it with two locals two weekends later. Turns out the name of the route was "As You Like it" ( I think it was anyway). When we got on it was after the big thaw they had, and it was significantly thin on P2, making it mostly dry tooling on vertical to overhanging and very exposed rock, which led to a final vertical pillar to top out. Wild ride!!!P1 was a long, tight, thin groove. Think White Line Fever on acid. Very little ice in the corner. Was pretty cool. I just wish I didn't have a hangover from the scotch party we had at the Ausable Inn the night before.

So, how was everyone elses season? Kathy....how did the limp noodle arms do this past year?

RR


RR...when you bailed off Repentance, what did you use for an anchor?

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#51779 - 05/02/10 07:49 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: AOR]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
Well, from my list I got to do two of the five, purgatory and the advocate, the latter coming on what ended up being my last day of the season. Instant karma seemed a bit much for me either time I was in there and the stuff in the dacks never quite made it this year. No worries, got in about 25 days, had some great times with usual and new partners in the usual and new places. I probably laughed my ass off more than any other climbing season and am here, uninjured, looking back on it. I call that a good year.
For most of us, the ice season is over but here's to Al and Pat and there upcoming trip to Mt Hunter! Climb hard, be safe, and have fun! And remember, it doesn't have to be fun to be fun.
_________________________

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#51803 - 05/03/10 04:43 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: pitfall]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
oooh, what are they doing???

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#51807 - 05/03/10 07:11 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: RangerRob]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
I got better... led a few fours with absolutely no problems, finished season doing Big Blue in underwood... climbed a lot... was good times.

Unfortunately I seem to SUCK at rock climbing now. More than the usual post winter bugs to shake out.
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

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#51864 - 05/05/10 02:29 AM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: RangerRob]
AOC Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/21/09
Posts: 27
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
oooh, what are they doing???


We're planning on the west ridge of Mt. Hunter - the original route climbed in 1954 by Beckey and Harrer (Alaska Grade 4, 5.8, AI 3). And if it's in - we're going to take a shot at the Mini-Moonflower (AI 4+). Leaving on Saturday.

Kathy - great post! I felt like I was there with you that day!
Mike - Harry - thanks for a great season. - Al

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#51872 - 05/05/10 02:18 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: AOC]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2679
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Much luck and great weather, Al.

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#51874 - 05/05/10 05:31 PM Re: What's on the ticklist this winter people? [Re: chip]
KathyS Offline
member

Registered: 01/10/08
Posts: 196
Loc: NY, USA
Have an awesome trip, Al and Pat!

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