i was thinking about NOT telling about the "secret" crags in maine, but, i figure everyone is always at work and never get out climbing so what the heck.
we did not have a guide book, so i do not know alot of the names of the climbs. sorry. we used "rock and road" and rock and ice #68 and climbing #162. they are both about eagles bluff and the cliton area just east of bangor maine.
it all started on wed afternoon. made an airport stop in hartford to pick up Jen. i was 2 hours late! sorry again Jen. good thing she is so cool. from hartford it is about 6-8 hours drive depending on "the" factors.
our first stop was at the Camden state park. we got a site, ate mad lobster and fantasized about the climbing we had come for. our first crag was barrett's cove. it is a nice cliff with many moderates to choose from. we were the 3rd party at the cliff. no bugs and no lines. we manageed to get up a few different climbs. again i am sorry that i do not have the names but they were all nice climbs. well protected trad routes for the most part. there were a few runout 6s too. one ofg the best things about this crag was the nice lake 300 meters from the base of the cliff. made for a nice cool down. the cliff is shady in the am. (tri cam work excellent here. do not leave them on the ground)
later that day on the 4th we drove to acadia. it was less than 2 hours on the scenic route 1.the otter clifff are the sea cliffs. we had to rap in so we TR. most of the climb just out of convience. we spent that evening and the next morning banging out the routes. one of the best climbs was guilotine a nice 9+ with a roof. now for us gunkies the roof was no problem but the rest of the climb was a nice thinker. we hit a few other moderates and then tried the 2 tens at the far end. they were hard and crimpy. the crux on the one was a finger crack with no feet above a small roof. the best part of the day came when we rocked up to the NP campground and asked for a site. at first there was none, but afterr a bit of negotiations a few opened up:::)))))) talk about good karma. a np campsite on the 4th with no reservation! (the otter cliffs had a few people climbing mainly due to the guided groups)
on the afternoon of the 5th we hit the precipice cliffs (south cliffs) also in the NP. let me just say one thing here, DO NOT MISS THIS CLIFF! it was awesome. again, we had the entire cliff to ourselves, the rock was perfect and the climbing 3 star. we got on the classic old town (7) and a classic 6 just to the right. the 6 was a 2 pitch. i opted for a vatiation finish on this awesome looking finger crack just above the belay ledge. it turned out to be an excellent crack with great feet. one of the best leads of the weekend. (granite) then it was off to the legendary cliffs of eagles bluff. located just e of bangor, it is a slab cliff made of granite. now if you can climb hard slab 10s and 11s you will have an awesome time. some excellent routes. this poser sucks at slab so the 7 scared the shit out of me and the 9+ just spit me off. just as i wsas losing my temper i discovered an 8 called "slice of the gunks" now we were talking! just as the name implies, steep rock with horizontals wass the game. perfect! i knew i could get up that! they call it an 8. and for those slab monkey it was. but for us gunk monkeys it would be a 6. do not miss it. on the way out i looked up at this 8 squeeze chimney called witch wonder. i linked it into one pitch. a great climb. a bit dirty down low bit up at the chimney it was awesome. now the chimney was triangular in shap and not very many chimney moves. Note: if you are as big as me or bigger YOU WILL GET STUCK! at one point i was stick out the top and bottom just stuck. i thought i was going to have top remove my harness to get through it. great gear was available....not that i could have fallen out if i tried. jen gave me the funniest look as i was poking out of my squeeze. she had no idea how i got through that "little" hole....niether do i! it was a great climb and was the talk of the trip! do not miss it! again we had the entire cliff to ourselves, well, a few mosquitos showed for a free feed!
all and all a great trip. great climbing , great weather , and a great partner rounded out a perfect holiday. about as far as NRG and way cooler (and less crowded) a good trip to beat the heat and get some different climbing in. the traffic was reasonable too.
now get back to work
desperate eddie planning his next trip.......