I was hoping someone in the know about Gunks climbing could enlighten me about the hardest routes, boulder problems and projects in the area. My interest is academic; I won't be climbing these routes in this lifetime (maybe next time around), but I enjoy hearing about hard ascents.

Anyway, are there 5.14 routes in the gunks? Is there potential for 5.14 routes? Where are the unsent projects and who has put in an effort on them? Is Cybernetic - http://vimeo.com/4534537 - the hardest route in the gunks?

Will Spinal Traction "go free"? Have all the moves been done?

What are the hardest bold lines (R/X or X) in the Gunks?

Anyone know where Ghengis Khan (V13, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qef7ZCLmwqE) or The Resolve (V14, no vid sorry) are located? Are these the hardest boulders in the area?

Any additional info is welcome!

Thanks in advance.

I don't know anything about boulder problems, and I'm sure there are plenty of people who are more in the know than I am. Spinal Traction hasn't gone free, and if ever there is a candidate for a 5.15 in the Gunks, that sure looks like it. Cybernetic I thought was .13 something. There is a roof crack not too far from Cybernetic Wall that I'm sure has been at least attempted before. Smike and I dubbed it the Garter Snake Crack in reference to the Cobra Crack. Sure looks in the .13 range to me. Picture a crack as long and thin as PR but on a 140 degree ceiling. I'm thinkthere is a roof out at the Subowl that has been been attempted and that hasn't gone yet either.

I'm sure there is a ton of other stuff out there that people are doing or attempting at just not spraying about.

RR

RangerRob.

Could you send me a picture of that crack you dub Garter Snake Crack..... That sound fun.

pretty sure Ghengis khan is a cave in the corridor area behind and uphill from marrakesh.

Chuck, Smike has a picture of me hanging off it to give some perspective. I will see if I can get him to post it.

Cybernetic is the hardest lead at 13d. The only 5.14 is a TR that Jordan Mills did left of Survival called Dreamland.

There are a few R rated 5.13's, including one that got done in summer of 2008 in the Nears. And there are certainly a few projects about; the one RangerRob mentions is very very cool

Ghengis Khan is located in a hard to find cave right of the slime wall along the cliff. The cliff seems chossy and slabby in that section, but cuts back to reveal a very cool cave. Agent Orange is another V13 in the Trapps, located before Boxcar, directly below the Sting. There are a few more 13's out there as well...Resolve is out at Lost City...

Oh yeah, Spinal Traction has become a bit of an abandoned project, as a very key hold in the middle is in danger of breaking off...it was about half way out too...and the climbing to get there was mid 5.13 into a V11 boulder problem...not that I climbed it, just what my friend brian told me

Thanks Andy! Too bad about that hold.

I hear the sit start to the Sing makes it hard 13.

One project I forgot to mention that gets talked about a lot is the Best Things in Life Aren't Free...It is supposedly very hard, and a bit runout. But its hyped as the best undone line in the Gunks...