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#50479 - 02/07/10 05:25 PM Re: Hardest routes, boulder problems, projects? [Re: andy]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3569
Loc: Ulster County, NY
That's te variation on Twilight Zone, rigt? It takes te independent seam out te main roof in te system. I didn't know it hadn't been completed. I tought it went at A4 on upsidedown bashies.

RR

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#50480 - 02/07/10 07:33 PM Re: Hardest routes, boulder problems, projects? [Re: RangerRob]
fixedpin Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/29/10
Posts: 2
Just curious but when you said...

"There are a few R rated 5.13's, including one that got done in summer of 2008 in the Nears."

What route were you referring to?

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#50481 - 02/08/10 01:56 PM Re: Hardest routes, boulder problems, projects? [Re: fixedpin]
talus Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1193
i believe it's by Iron Cross.
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#50483 - 02/09/10 03:50 AM Re: Hardest routes, boulder problems, projects? [Re: talus]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2934
Loc: LI, NY
Rob, can I interest you in a new H for your keyboard?
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Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#50485 - 02/09/10 04:28 PM Re: Hardest routes, boulder problems, projects? [Re: empicard]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3569
Loc: Ulster County, NY
sut up sitead!

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#50489 - 02/10/10 05:27 AM Re: Hardest routes, boulder problems, projects? [Re: RangerRob]
andy Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/10/06
Posts: 6
@fixed pin
The route takes a roof left of Grease Gun Groove. It has a large ledge about thirty feet up, and so a fall from the roof or face past may put the climber on the ledge. As the last bit of gear is well under the roof, and the crux establishing over the lip, this seems like a likely scenario

The route right of Iron Cross that talus hinted at is actually a 12d...but takes a nice straight line and has very cool moves
@ Rob: I meant it hadnt been freed...

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#50490 - 02/10/10 12:10 PM Re: Hardest routes, boulder problems, projects? [Re: andy]
NYZoo Offline
newbie

Registered: 07/06/08
Posts: 29
What about that thin seam right of carbs and caffine and left of wasp stop? It's in dicks grey book but I can't remember if it has a name.. I think it's been done with aid but not free. Has anyone worked it in recent years?

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#50491 - 02/10/10 12:19 PM Re: Hardest routes, boulder problems, projects? [Re: NYZoo]
NYZoo Offline
newbie

Registered: 07/06/08
Posts: 29
Isn't there a climb called matronics (or something like that) at LC that's right of persistance that's been freed at 13d by moffet?

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#50499 - 02/10/10 10:08 PM Re: Hardest routes, boulder problems, projects? [Re: NYZoo]
andy Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/10/06
Posts: 6
yeah i dunno about the name of that seam...not heard of anyone trying it recently

Mantronics is 13d, but it was a TR, not a lead...it was the "from the ground" start to a 13b/c called tronics that started by swinging into the rock to start

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#50502 - 02/10/10 11:14 PM Re: Hardest routes, boulder problems, projects? [Re: andy]
charliebutters Offline
addict

Registered: 11/11/01
Posts: 499
Loc: accord
Mantronix

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