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#51155 - 04/01/10 09:23 PM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: GOclimb]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Originally Posted By: GOclimb
Where I found I really *didn't* excel was at poorly protected insecure climbing. Put me on a 25 foot section of runout, thin, balancy 5.8 face, and I'm quaking in my boots. I'm now, after having climbed for 11+ years, realizing that I need to go back to basics and work up through the grades, to get my head to deal with the notion of mandatory long bits of climbing with no gear.


Spend a few weeks in Tuolumne doing the old-school classics - that'll school ya! BTW, I don't recommend starting with Dike Route, even though it's "only" 5.8+.
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- Marc

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#51157 - 04/02/10 01:36 AM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: MarcC]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2677
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
However, the Snake Dike might not be a bad start with 3 pitches of 5.3-4 going anchor to anchor with no other pro. Amazing how quickly you can lead a pitch when you don't pro.

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#51158 - 04/02/10 03:39 AM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: chip]
manny Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/27/10
Posts: 15
Loc: NYC
Though provoking stuff guys. Julie, I will do my best to heed your advice, as my eyes can be quite starry and shiny things have become very very addicting. One part of me just wants to get better at leading/protection/rescue tactics, while the other part just wants to get out there and go, trial by fire (with solid fundamental basics of course). My mind had thought a fair compromise was to say 'Sure, I'll satisfy both of these by just getting out there and doing it', learning to lead better as I ventured out and, well, lead harder and harder. See, the situation is my ego wants very badly for me to say that i've learned enough for now and I need to only practice practice practice, but what I realize more each day is... the ego is a dumbass. Thanks for the words Julie.

You know guys, the more I read people's thought about essentially-all-passive-gear starting, the more I'm looking forward to getting out there this way. If there is one governing bit of advice the guy I learned from out west gave to me, it's the need for versatility, so that whatever the piece of gear, and wherever the circumstance it can potentially be applied to, you will be able to figure it out and use it effectively. Seriously a tall order, but that's definitely one of my major goals.

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#51159 - 04/02/10 04:24 AM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: MarcC]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: MarcC
Originally Posted By: GOclimb
Where I found I really *didn't* excel was at poorly protected insecure climbing. Put me on a 25 foot section of runout, thin, balancy 5.8 face, and I'm quaking in my boots. I'm now, after having climbed for 11+ years, realizing that I need to go back to basics and work up through the grades, to get my head to deal with the notion of mandatory long bits of climbing with no gear.


Spend a few weeks in Tuolumne doing the old-school classics - that'll school ya! BTW, I don't recommend starting with Dike Route, even though it's "only" 5.8+.


Actually, what I'm doing is working through the grades in Eldo. It's certainly not tuolumne slab, but it's getting the job done!

GO

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#51169 - 04/05/10 12:42 AM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: GOclimb]
jdw Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/25/01
Posts: 219
Loc: Connecticut
Snake Dike has pro - the worst runout I remember was one bolt on a 150' pitch. The bolts are there, you just have to find them.

JDW

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#51170 - 04/05/10 01:11 AM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: jdw]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Originally Posted By: jdw
Snake Dike has pro - the worst runout I remember was one bolt on a 150' 5.4 pitch.

Fixed your sentence. What we're talking about in the Meadows is doing 5.9 friction moves 25' (or more) out from a 40 yr old 1/4" button-head.
_________________________
- Marc

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#51172 - 04/05/10 03:10 AM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: MarcC]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2677
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
40 yr. old 1/4" button head = 50 year old soft iron ring piton!

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#51173 - 04/05/10 01:59 PM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: MarcC]
ianmanger Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Originally Posted By: MarcC
Originally Posted By: jdw
Snake Dike has pro - the worst runout I remember was one bolt on a 150' 5.4 pitch.

Fixed your sentence. What we're talking about in the Meadows is doing 5.9 friction moves 25' (or more) out from a 40 yr old 1/4" button-head.



BITD when 50m was std. Angels Approach on the Apron. 15-20ft out from the last manky bolt, headed for the manky anchor, possibly another 15+ft. Standing on and holding onto a variety of dishy-nothings.

Partner calls out "5ft"

No way to reverse, stand on dishy nothings for 20+ minutes, calves and mouth screaming bloody blue murder, while he untangles the anchor and starts simul climbing the same nothings. Its not hard but I know he's crap on slabs.

Reach the anchor. Bring him up, rap silently. Drive back to Bay Area with very few words. Find other partners with longer ropes. Or two ropes.

Climbers. People you want to be tied to and some you don't.

ps Manny, I was serious about offering to climb with you for exactly the purpose Julie suggested.

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#51237 - 04/13/10 12:46 AM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: ianmanger]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
By the by, I did Apoplexy this evening with stoppers and two tricams. It's just fine. The horizontal under the flake move takes both the red and pink tricam wonderfully. I found a nut placement a little higher up into the crux than I ever looked for before. Quite the lovely 5.9 for a camless ascent. Next...Bonnie's?

RR

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#51238 - 04/13/10 01:15 AM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: RangerRob]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: hamlet\'s hand
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Next...Bonnie's? RR


Nah. Sente.
_________________________
Shongum ain\'t Indian,
it\'s Shawank-unk.

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