Spend a few weeks in Tuolumne doing the old-school classics - that'll school ya! BTW, I don't recommend starting with Dike Route, even though it's "only" 5.8+.

However, the Snake Dike might not be a bad start with 3 pitches of 5.3-4 going anchor to anchor with no other pro. Amazing how quickly you can lead a pitch when you don't pro.

Though provoking stuff guys. Julie, I will do my best to heed your advice, as my eyes can be quite starry and shiny things have become very very addicting. One part of me just wants to get better at leading/protection/rescue tactics, while the other part just wants to get out there and go, trial by fire (with solid fundamental basics of course). My mind had thought a fair compromise was to say 'Sure, I'll satisfy both of these by just getting out there and doing it', learning to lead better as I ventured out and, well, lead harder and harder. See, the situation is my ego wants very badly for me to say that i've learned enough for now and I need to only practice practice practice, but what I realize more each day is... the ego is a dumbass. Thanks for the words Julie.

You know guys, the more I read people's thought about essentially-all-passive-gear starting, the more I'm looking forward to getting out there this way. If there is one governing bit of advice the guy I learned from out west gave to me, it's the need for versatility, so that whatever the piece of gear, and wherever the circumstance it can potentially be applied to, you will be able to figure it out and use it effectively. Seriously a tall order, but that's definitely one of my major goals.

Actually, what I'm doing is working through the grades in Eldo. It's certainly not tuolumne slab, but it's getting the job done!

GO

Snake Dike has pro - the worst runout I remember was one bolt on a 150' pitch. The bolts are there, you just have to find them.

JDW

Fixed your sentence. What we're talking about in the Meadows is doing 5.9 friction moves 25' (or more) out from a 40 yr old 1/4" button-head.

40 yr. old 1/4" button head = 50 year old soft iron ring piton!

BITD when 50m was std. Angels Approach on the Apron. 15-20ft out from the last manky bolt, headed for the manky anchor, possibly another 15+ft. Standing on and holding onto a variety of dishy-nothings.

Partner calls out "5ft"

No way to reverse, stand on dishy nothings for 20+ minutes, calves and mouth screaming bloody blue murder, while he untangles the anchor and starts simul climbing the same nothings. Its not hard but I know he's crap on slabs.

Reach the anchor. Bring him up, rap silently. Drive back to Bay Area with very few words. Find other partners with longer ropes. Or two ropes.

Climbers. People you want to be tied to and some you don't.

ps Manny, I was serious about offering to climb with you for exactly the purpose Julie suggested.

By the by, I did Apoplexy this evening with stoppers and two tricams. It's just fine. The horizontal under the flake move takes both the red and pink tricam wonderfully. I found a nut placement a little higher up into the crux than I ever looked for before. Quite the lovely 5.9 for a camless ascent. Next...Bonnie's?

RR

Nah. Sente.