Shout Box

Who's Online
0 registered (), 5 Guests and 3 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 5 of 7 < 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 >
Topic Options
#51240 - 04/13/10 02:08 AM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: yorick]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2470
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Bonnies sure...or Double Crack. Dave Craft and I did it with a set of nuts ordered direct from Joe Brown around 1968---the first all-nut ascent in the Gunks, I think, at a time before Chouinard made stoppers available. Those nuts were pretty primitive by today's standards, especially with respect to the range of sizes, but my memory is that the protection on the route was fine. Gotta be a piece o' cake nowadays.

Top
#51250 - 04/13/10 11:06 AM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: rg@ofmc]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Yes but Rich, you forget that you guys were actually tough back in the day. My balls shrink a little when I think of doing Double Crack without any cams on my harness.

Sente? I'm adventurous, not stupid.

There is a difference between carrying a set of cams and not using them, and not carrying them at all. Camless ascents ideally need to be done with not cams on the rack

Top
#51264 - 04/13/10 03:21 PM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: RangerRob]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Maybe below the level you're looking for, RR, but Finger Locks or Cedar Box goes great all passive. Just make sure to bring some hexes for the top.

To Manny (the original poster) - you been out yet this season? How'd it go?

GO

Top
#51265 - 04/13/10 05:04 PM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: GOclimb]
manny Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/27/10
Posts: 15
Loc: NYC
GO, I'm heading out this Friday actually (will be my first trip of the season) and oh man am I about as pumped as it gets. Planning on starting in the low low grades to keep reality in check while I get used to the new rock. I have a good feeling I'm gonna scare myself shitless at some point, man am I excited!

Top
#51266 - 04/13/10 05:39 PM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: manny]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Hey Manny, you will have to post up about your weekend and let us know how it goes. You could spend several weeks just doing 5.3, 4 and 5 and having a blast. The peregrine closure area could effect your options so you might want to think about the climbs you would like to get on ahead of time.

Top
#51374 - 04/17/10 10:59 PM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: chip]
manny Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/27/10
Posts: 15
Loc: NYC
Thursday was the day, first trip to the Gunks and first leads without a guide, man it was killer. We only got in a couple of routes, and easy was the name of the day. I spend more time triple and quadruple-checking every thing that I did than we did climbing, but overall it was awesome.

Oh, and about the grading, wow, yea, stiff would be the correct word. I'm sure it's also got a lot to due with the new rock surface, but I found myself thinking those grades were pretty sandbagged. However... i WAS warned about this, so my brain (and ego) will simply have to slowly adjust. I did succeed though in not placing my single cam as pro on my way up any climb. (did use it for anchors though, oh well) It was definitely a goal I had to learn the passive stuff well. By the end of the day I got pretty comfortable w/ it indeed.

We started w/ Squiggles, mainly because my second had never actually seconded before and I wanted to do one solid single pitch before we tried multi's. Another reason was I was itching to climb something from the moment I saw the cliffs from the highway and it was the first climb that we identified that fulfilled our first-climb requirements (easy, good protection, single pitch). MAN was I nervous though! So yes, for ~50 feet of climbing I carried every piece of pro I had. I think it will be some time before I think myself ballsy enough to assume I can predict what I will and won't need. But whatever, extra weight maybe, but added security definitely. There was still a moment though where I was ~8 feet above my last piece and I thought, shit man, I don't see another potential placement till that crack a few more feet above, so I had a momentary internal panic-attack and clipped a really shady looking fixed pin. Oh well, I did get more and more comfortable running it out on easy stuff as the day went on though. Belayed my friend up (direct from the anchor) and went on to search for about a 1/2-hour for the way down. I have no idea where we descended from but it was not the uberfall.

Our second climb, occupying most of our day, was Three Pines. What an awesome time. Gave me the chance to really work on my passive gear and to trust myself to run it out a bit if I felt there was better pro above. We did it in three pitches, mainly because I wanted the practice in setting anchors. And on the last pitch I also achieved my goal of scaring myself rather shitless. I decided to take the 5.6 variation up the left face of the block and topping out on it rather than the easy up from the side. Holy crap man, when I got to it, and saw the move I needed to do (these moves were 2 grades higher than what I'd been doing all day!), I looked down and saw that if I missed it or hesitated, I was hitting the deck for sure. Holy crap man, that was it, I saw the move, on top-rope something like wouldn't have even made me think twice, easy easy. But KNOWING that if I missed it my ass would hit GT-ledge before I could even shout, Holy crap dude! It was sick man, that was my "commit" moment. I had no choice, I sucked it up and did what I had to do, it was killer! Man, that feeling when I got through it! I rode that high for the rest of the day. Finished up the climb, belayed up my friend (up his first multi-pitch ever!) and we took our time to get down in 3 raps.

What a day! Going back this coming weekend, addiction officially in place.

Top
#51375 - 04/17/10 11:12 PM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: manny]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Awesome Trip Report! Glad you got your money's worth.

Top
#51378 - 04/18/10 04:40 AM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: manny]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Thanks for the report. Nice work!

No wonder you think the Gunks is sandbagged - Squiggles is super-polished. It's a really nice climb, but the only thing I can think of that's as polished is the beginning of Airy Aria.

BTW, next time you go out, have someone show you where the uberfall descent is. Or else wait at the bottom for someone to go down it, and then climb up it to retrace their steps. It can be hard to find unless you know what you're looking for, because if you're going north along the cliptop, you'll walk right by it without seeing it - you actually have to double back to find it.

Cheers!

GO

Top
#51384 - 04/18/10 09:21 PM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: RangerRob]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Sente? I'm adventurous, not stupid.

Sente is easy to do camless since, iirc, there's only one cam placement on the route - the horizontal before the first bolt, which would easily take a tri cam or two. Or are you conflating camless with all nut/no fixed pro?

BTW, Double Crack just eats as many stoppers, tri-cams, and hexes as you care to carry. No need for active cams at all.
_________________________
- Marc

Top
#51401 - 04/19/10 12:53 PM Re: New to gunks, new to leading, rack critique please [Re: MarcC]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
oh yes I agree, Double Crack eats nuts. I'm just a noodle armed climber, that's all. Yeah Sente has the bolts, kind of ruins the intent.

Top
Page 5 of 7 < 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 >


Moderator:  daryl512 
Sponsored