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#5148 - 07/22/02 06:54 PM Zion/St. George/Vegas
Silver Offline

Registered: 08/17/01
Posts: 17
Loc: Buffalo, NY
I've read all the posts on the areas above. I've just started leading and I'm heading out there in late summer (Aug. 16-24). I'd like to do some climbing but all the routes are a bit stiff for my limited experience. Are there ANY easy leads in these areas? I'm talking really easy 5.4 stuff. I can follow 7-8 but would need a leader.

If there aren't easy leads, I'm wondering why. Is broken sandstone too dangerous for protection? Maybe no one bothers to put up easy routes out west?

#5149 - 07/22/02 07:43 PM Re: Zion/St. George/Vegas [Re: Silver]
Chas Offline

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Just go and peek your head around the corner (using good sense). Some areas are soft (in some areas 5.4's-5.6's are all sort of lumped together) Some of it is that some of the areas are vertical cracks on rock with very little features (not condusive for easy climbing which is why in Indian Creek you better be atleast a 5.10 leader).

#5150 - 07/22/02 09:37 PM Re: Zion/St. George/Vegas [Re: Chas]
andrew Offline


Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
There is nothing that easy in Zion. There may be some in Red Rocks, but I have no first hand information.

Most desert sandstone(Red Rocks being a big exception) has no face holds and only very steep splitter cracks, which means routes start at 5.9 At Indian Creek, a 5.9 is typically a 5.10 that is only 30 feet long. The rock just doesn't lend itself to moderate routes.

Lots of areas out west have moderates - just not this area. Also keep in mind that it is hotter than hell at these areas until october or so.
This isn't an office. It's Hell with fluorescent lighting.

#5151 - 07/22/02 09:40 PM Re: Zion/St. George/Vegas [Re: Silver]
CrackBoy Offline

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
As far as vegas goes, i don't have much experience for trad sinc ei only did a couple routes of it when i was out there. I stuck mostly to the bolted stuff sincei was too hot to want to lug my rack on a long approach.

I thought the bolted stuff was pretty soft. for example, the panty wall. But that is assuming you are willing to clip some bolts
Just Call me Mr. Enthusiasm

#5152 - 07/22/02 10:06 PM Re: Zion/St. George/Vegas [Re: CrackBoy]
Chas Offline

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
There are good trad routes in Red Rocks, but don't assume the grades will be like the sport routes. The trad routes (which are harder routes) tend to be dead on or maybe even sandbag (ok, I may be a good crack climber but I suck at offwidth and 150ft of 5.10d offwidth I suck at big time so I shouldn't say its sandbagged)

#5153 - 07/22/02 10:41 PM Re: Zion/St. George/Vegas [Re: andrew]
tico Offline

Registered: 12/12/00
Posts: 416
Loc: Gardiner, NY
If you want some ugly, ugly climbing you can try the first three pitches of Space Shot in Zion. I seem to remember them going at 5.4, 5.5, 5.4, but it's been a while. easy to rap off when the real climbing starts. You can even rap to and then toprope the 5.9 "alpine start"

Red Rocks has tons of climbs in the 5.5 range. Rising Moon and the area around it is thick with easy climbs. Approach is semi-long and semi-confusing (i.e., RR standard).

If 5.4 is seriously your limit, you'll probably have a better time just hiking in Zion. It's really special there. Go spend some days in Kolob canyon, it's some of the last real wild in the lower 48.

#5154 - 07/23/02 03:31 PM Re: Zion/St. George/Vegas [Re: tico]

There are a lot of moderate climbs in First Creek Canyon at Red Rocks. There are also some very easy bolted sport routes at second pullout - Magic Bus and Black Corridor areas. If you climb in the shade, you can climb all summer. You just have to go out early or late. Midday is bad. Also, realize that you will be approaching First Creek through the desert, probably for 45 minutes. It will also take that long to get back to your car - allow plenty of time before dark! It is very easy to get lost when everything looks the same. The approach and hike back to your car are what kills you, if you are climbing in the shade, it can be quite pleasant.

Finally, if you are going to walk in and out in the full sun, leave a note on your car so we can scavenge the gear off of your dessicated body.


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