Shout Box

Who's Online
1 registered (1 invisible), 7 Guests and 5 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Topic Options
#52039 - 05/17/10 01:48 AM Yum yum yab yum?
kmills Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/12/08
Posts: 8
I checked out yum yum yab yum with my girlfriend this weekend and found the beginning of pitch two to be confusing. I figure you're supposed to climb up part way on the detached flake to the right of the tree and then transition to the left facing corner across the sloping holds up and left. This is not protected at all and a good 15 to 20 feet above the belay ledge. No way thats G so I didn't want to forge ahead to uncertain territory. Maybe you go to the top of the flake and then under the small overhang and left. That looked protectable but awkward moves to the top of the flake. The route looks great so any input would be appreciated.

Top
#52040 - 05/17/10 02:09 AM Re: Yum yum yab yum? [Re: kmills]
AOR Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/27/04
Posts: 392
It's been a few years since I've been on it, but I'm assuming you're speaking of the start of P2 from the belay on the ledge "under" the overlap/hang. I remember traversing out left (stepping down and to the left) to the left facing corner being rather steep with fairly good holds and better pro once you get about 10'-15' up and left from the belay. Once there, it's straight up to the start of P3 and the awkward and famous traverse out right to the top. And, I think that it may be more PG-...

Top
#52041 - 05/17/10 02:41 AM Re: Yum yum yab yum? [Re: AOR]
kmills Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/12/08
Posts: 8
I guess I'm confused about whether the end of pitch one is at the tree with slings or another 25 feet up and right on top of the flake. It seems there may be an "alcove" as described in my Gunks Select book if you stood on top of the flake. That would also make sense if you need to step down to transition to the left facing corner, does P1 really end on top of the flake, not at the tree?

Top
#52058 - 05/17/10 03:44 PM Re: Yum yum yab yum? [Re: kmills]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2679
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I ended P1 at the base of the big flake on a large ledge, just above/in back of the rap tree. I also was surprised at the committing feel of the traverse left around the small arete and into the corner and that it was easier than I initially thought it would be. I did find good enough gear (or wouldn't have continued, even on 5.3) but really don't remember what. I also remember finding an excellent piece just after this move and great pro for the rest of a great pitch. Go back and DO IT!

Top
#52070 - 05/17/10 06:59 PM Re: Yum yum yab yum? [Re: chip]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Yum Yum is a 5.3 that thinks it is a 5.6....or the other way around. However you put it, if you forget about that little bit of 5.6 climbing, it's really just a 5.3. Definitely the hardest 5.3 in the Gunks as far as I am concerned. I usually do P1 and 2 together, but yes the route goes up the flak thing to the right, then there is a step down and across into the left facing corner with little to no pro. PGish for sure. Combining these two puts you on the nice belay ledge about 150' up. Then a short rising traverse pitch up and left to the alcove ledge belay, and the short, airy last pitch.

RR

Top
#52080 - 05/17/10 11:27 PM Re: Yum yum yab yum? [Re: RangerRob]
kmills Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/12/08
Posts: 8
So, the consensus is go to the top of the flake and step down and left. That looks reasonable given the nice seam to place a small cam under the small overhang across the traverse. So is it better to end pitch one at the top of the flake or at the tree? Also, if we actually make it to the top, are there any opportunities for a single rope rap near by or is it a hike off, or do I drag another rope?

Top
#52084 - 05/18/10 01:20 AM Re: Yum yum yab yum? [Re: kmills]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2679
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
You do not want to belay at the top of the flake for lack of good redundant gear, the drag you will get from the traverse followed by a 90 degree straight up turn around a corner, and your belayer's sanity on a hanging belay 10 feet above a huge comfy ledge. Both the first and second belay ledges are large and have rap anchors off trees and a single 60 meter is plenty for those. I have not tried to rap down from the top, fourth pitch, but the overhung and traversing nature of the climbing would likely make rapping it tough to get back to the 3rd belay and looks like it finishes pretty far climbers right from the belay ledge for the second perch. Maybe someone who has done it knows better.

Top
#52145 - 05/19/10 04:43 PM Re: Yum yum yab yum? [Re: chip]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Just walk off, it will be easier. As far as where to stop for P1...if you can combine p1 and 2 do it. Otherwise stop low down at that tree belay. Don't belay near the crux

Top
#52150 - 05/19/10 06:44 PM Re: Yum yum yab yum? [Re: RangerRob]
tallgirlnyc Offline
member

Registered: 05/12/08
Posts: 194
Loc: Cold Spring NY
I love this route and did it in 4 pitches the first time I led it. The walk off is very chill and gives the whole experience a bit of an alpine feel.

Top


Moderator:  Mike Rawdon, Steven Cherry 
Sponsored