I am looking at purchasing my first rope and I have 2 great deals at my disposal and wanted to get some opinions. First is the Petzl Nomad 9.8mm or the Mammut Supernova 10mm. I know .2mm isn't a huge difference, but I hadn't planned on going lower than 10mm and was thinking that for the mostly top roping and beginning leading I might be better off with a little bit fatter rope.

In general, among the large manufacturers, I'd say a rope is a rope if you consider equivelent grams/meter (its a better measure then diameter) in my book, with the caveat of Petzl. Which is suprising forr me to say since I really like Petzl as a climbing gear compamny. I say it since among my climbing partners and I, we've trashed them out so much faster then any other rope (with Keith destroying his on a one month road trip). Mammut makes great ropes.

Petzl has had some durability problems with their ropes. But beyond that, I think that even a 10mm rope, not to mention a 9.8, is on the thin side for "top-roping and beginning leading," where durability is far more important than light weight.

I just got a Petzl (doesn't someone else actually manufacture them?) this winter. It's been in pretty constant use since then, and is it almost trashed. Seriously, if I didn't know it was only a few months old, I'd be scared to climb on it. I think it was a Zephyr, 10.3. We're getting another pair of doubles in a little bit, and I think this rope might well be retired after that.

According to a comment by Jim Ewing on rc.com, Cousin-Trestec manufacturers both Petzl and Millet ropes.

Chas, sounds like you need to stop falling so much and start holding on longer!!!!

Buy the prettiest rope

Well that's good to know about the petzl, I also sort of figured that 9.8 was a bit on the thin side for starting out. I'm thinking it is probably a better plan to go with something in the 10.5-11 range considering all the use it will hopefully get as I build up my skills.

Ropes are really expensive over here, so I often buy in the States, have them delivered to my folks over there and pick them up when I come over to visit.

I'm not super picky, but I've had good luck with Bluewater over the years, and they almost always have a model or two on sale on line at REI or REI Outlet. I've consistently found their Accelerator 10.5 on sale there for around USD 140 or less. Nice durable rope for general use.

They don't have that one on there right now (in fact, their BW selection looks thin in general), but I just looked and saw a 10.3 called Slimline for USD 157 that looks pretty good:

http://www.rei.com/product/803584

Worth a look, maybe.

Rob,

When you get to my age, hanging on is just a dream. Atleast I can get FA's (Flatulance assisted).

As an update to this, my Petzl that was brandy new in February is now completely, totally done. Fat, hairy and limp, and I can feel the sheath pulling away from the core in places.

I'm horrified at how fast that rope died, under average weekend use.

There have been a lot of problems with Petzl ropes wearing out very fast. I wouldn't buy one for a while.

I'm on my second or third set of Mammut Genesis (8.5mm half ropes). I'm starting to worry about their age a bit, but they look absolutely fine---no fuzzing or anything. They've seen a lot of cragging in the Gunks and some weeklong trips to Red Rocks. The same thing with my first set; they never wore out at all, but eventually I thought I probably ought to buy a new pair.

I'm sure there are ropes as good, but I don't think you can do any better. A lot of folks praise Sterling for their durability.

I have a Mammut Infinity 9.5mm 70m and really like it. While less useful at the Gunks, the extra length is handy for pitch linking most every place else and the diameter and weight are a good compromise. I used the Mammut Supersafe and Edelweiss for a while and though I like the notion of a rope that resists sharp edges, it adds a bunch of thickness and therefore weight (and in the case of the Edleweiss, stiffness). I'd be curious if anyone has experiences where the Supersafe or Edelweiss edge protection has proved key.

aid climbing. jugging fixed lines over edges makes you think about ropes that have good edge resistant qualities. 70m can be nice for linking or short-fixing. extra thickness not a bad thing to something of a good thing for jugging. weight not really a factor when the kitchen sink is being hauled behind you.

+1 for beal (nice handling), mammut (durable), and edelwhatever ropes (cant remember if its an edelrid or an edelweiss - either way its been a good cord)

Should have said 'excluding aid'. The unpleasant thought of jugging over edges was why i got the Edelweiss. Type in haste etc.. Though I did see the sad report over on Supertopo about a death in Eldo just a few days ago from lead fall and a sliced cord. Although the details are a little sketchy, it answered my dumb question.

links

http://mountainproject.com/v/injuries_and_accidents/eldo_accident_reported_in_dc/106804816__3

stuff on rope edge tests. Climbers blather on and on and have some basic math issues.

http://mountainproject.com/v/climbing_ge...ropes/106808107

mammut. sterling. bluewater.

i wouldn't even give away a petzl rope.

Agreed, but I'd add that Beal deserves a place in that ranking of top ropes.

Just out of curiosity, Julie, what possessed you to buy a Petzl?

GO

One of my winter partners has/had one, and it seemed like a really nice rope .... used it for ~2 years (winter only). I didn't even worry about it - I thought, it's Petzl, they make good stuff!

My initial reaction to reading your question, though, was: i have no earthly idea.

we bought a petzl nomad rope a couple of years ago and have used it extensively....with no problem what ever...handles well and wears really well...just bought another one....

I haven't used one in five or six years. I used to love them, but I just don't have any recent experience with them, so...who knows?