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#52132 - 05/19/10 04:11 AM Re: Worst TR anchor Ever ? [Re: Mac]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Originally Posted By: Mac
It was pretty sturdy. the tree wasn't completely on the ground; the root was strong and held through despite various pulls, kicks, and pushes. Also, there was a huge boulder that acted as an opposing force which I thought would help. Thanks for the support smile

Just to be crystal clear - I wasn't supporting you. You constructed a grossly unsafe anchor and placed you and everyone in your party in danger of getting killed. Because of the rocks dislodged by the movement of the tree, you also placed anyone near you in danger as well. Somehow you read Long's book and completely ignored the multiple mentions of redundancy. At this point in your climbing, you are clearly incompetent and a danger to the community.
_________________________
- Marc

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#52136 - 05/19/10 11:55 AM Re: Worst TR anchor Ever ? [Re: SethG]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
I love everything about this post. It makes me smile evertime i read the comments. Kudos to the photograpgher and to the Saturday climbing legend who set up this artful TR anchor.

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#52138 - 05/19/10 12:06 PM Re: Worst TR anchor Ever ? [Re: Cliff Destructo]
gunkie Offline
member

Registered: 07/19/00
Posts: 120
Loc: New Hope, PA
We all want to be safe and we all want everyone else to be safe, if not for altuistic reasons then for selfish reasons. I've had more than one climbing day shutdown because I ended up assisting with a rescue or a body recovery. And these things stick with you. It's not like you'll carry a corpse out, load it the back of a vehicle and then jump on your next project. Even walking out with an injured climber sucks big time.

We all need to have more respect for each other and should be open to criticism. When I was starting to climb really well back around the early 80's some 'nobody' pointed out that I was belaying incorrectly. I was ashamed and didn't act too well toward that person at the time. I was a dick. Truth be told, that 'nobody' may have saved someone's life and allowed me to have a much safer and more enjoyable climbing life. If I could go back and rectify my actions or reactions, I would. And I'm an absolutely great belayer now smile

Let's all be safe and have fun.

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#52139 - 05/19/10 12:46 PM Re: Worst TR anchor Ever ? [Re: Mac]
whatthegunks Offline
member

Registered: 05/09/09
Posts: 136
Loc: High Falls, NY
Mac, a good thing to get is a length of 9-10 mm static cord, 25 meters should do it. This cord is something incredibly handy for building top rope anchors, is relatively inexpensive and is strong and durable. It is better, stronger and less complicated, to have a single piece of material to create your anchor with than to link together a variety of materials with girth hitches (which weaken weaken the system significantly) and/or carabiners. With 25 or more meters of material to work with it should be no problem to extend your 'master point' over the edge and to create strong, equalized and redundant anchors for top roping. Remember to protect yourself when you are working close to the edge during set up.

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#52142 - 05/19/10 02:11 PM Re: Worst TR anchor Ever ? [Re: whatthegunks]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Still waiting for the PM to prove this wasn't a troll...

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#52153 - 05/19/10 07:36 PM Re: Worst TR anchor Ever ? [Re: chip]
mr.tastycakes Offline
newbie

Registered: 12/07/08
Posts: 25
Freakin' hilarious...Mac here builds a horrendous anchor (when there are large healthy trees nearby; I TR'd squiggles direct and jacob's ladder just last season), lets the whole group risk their necks on it, then gets an attitude about it when pictures surface online. Gold, Jerry, gold!

PS I know you gals. Seen you in the gym. My party passed y'all on the carriage road and one of you said, "We've been setting up this anchor for like 4 hours." You should all chip in to get a guide for a day, and study those books in the meantime.

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#52154 - 05/19/10 08:03 PM Re: Worst TR anchor Ever ? [Re: mr.tastycakes]
tallgirlnyc Offline
member

Registered: 05/12/08
Posts: 194
Loc: Cold Spring NY
I am always in a quandary about how much to say when I see something abjectly dangerous. For myself I have decided to go ahead and offer up a concern and leave it at that. Not to be critical just cautionary.

However renegade and disparate, we are a community so let's ante up and help the ignorant climbers bent on killing themselves and others.

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#52155 - 05/19/10 10:04 PM Re: Worst TR anchor Ever ? [Re: tallgirlnyc]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: tallgirlnyc
I am always in a quandary about how much to say when I see something abjectly dangerous. For myself I have decided to go ahead and offer up a concern and leave it at that. Not to be critical just cautionary.

However renegade and disparate, we are a community so let's ante up and help the ignorant climbers bent on killing themselves and others.



I'll send 'em my one inch military spec webbing. IIRC, I still have probably sixty to eighty feet of it, and I haven't used it in years. Seems like they could use it far better than I can.

With that, a few biners, and some knowledge, you can set up a toprope just about anywhere.

Send me a PM, and I'll send you the gear.

Sorry, can't help out on the knowledge part - not on the East Coast anymore. But seriously - telling these folks to hire a guide? 90% of the posters here could show these folks a couple of safe ways to set up an anchor in about an hour. None of you can take an hour out of your weekend to just show this lady a thing or two before she's involved in a serious accident?

GO

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#52156 - 05/19/10 10:39 PM Re: Worst TR anchor Ever ? [Re: GOclimb]
kmills Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/12/08
Posts: 8
I wonder if this was the group of women who decided to belay from the rap slings dangling over the edge on pitch one of Betty because the ledge was too full...

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#52157 - 05/20/10 12:08 AM Re: Worst TR anchor Ever ? [Re: kmills]
tallgirlnyc Offline
member

Registered: 05/12/08
Posts: 194
Loc: Cold Spring NY
Thanks GO-very, very nice.

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