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#5234 - 08/02/02 03:56 PM Acadia Nat'l. Park
Anonymous
Unregistered


Anybody been to Acadia lately? (I'm heading out there in a week.) Just wondering if you might be able to pass along any info. on peregrine nesting closures or other restrictions, new route or bouldering development, and any other local climbing news. What about the new shuttle bus system and getting to the climbing areas? How did you like the new guidebook?

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#5235 - 08/02/02 04:58 PM Re: Acadia Nat'l. Park
cori Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/20/01
Posts: 1357
What is this new guidebook? The old one was - well - it - well - it fit in a pocket!

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#5236 - 08/02/02 05:26 PM Re: Acadia Nat'l. Park
Anonymous
Unregistered


The new guidebook is quite a bit better than the old Tierney book. The price tag ($25) reflects the quality.

I haven't been over there in a while, too many folks scare us woodland creatures. However this site:
http://nerock.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?
... usually has some fairly recent reports. I'm headed out that way this weekend.

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#5237 - 08/02/02 07:31 PM Re: Acadia Nat'l. Park [Re: cori]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
The new guidebook had been promised for some 20 years by Jeff Butterfield. The old one had been out of print for even longer and probably doesn't include half the routes that are on the island.

Peregrine nesting closures usually are in effect this time of year, but typically only affect the climbs to the right of the staircase at Precipice. The majority of the cliff and climbs are usually open.

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#5238 - 08/02/02 08:27 PM Re: Acadia Nat'l. Park [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
cori Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/20/01
Posts: 1357
Is ther any way to get this book other than NErock.com? Paypal never allows me to use it and when I fill out the forms for help I never hear back.

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#5239 - 08/02/02 09:27 PM Re: Acadia Nat'l. Park
Eddie Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1446
Loc: NP. NY
i was there july 4th weekend. no bird closures. i do not know of the bus, but do not miss precipice cliff!
have fun
eddie
_________________________
http://oldstyleportraits.com/

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#5240 - 08/04/02 03:15 AM Re: Acadia Nat'l. Park
jj221 Offline
member

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 127
Loc: Morristown, NJ
I was there 4th of July weekend as well. The Jeff Butterfield guide is the way to go.
If you want top rope at Otter Cliff 50 feet of static rope and a chunk of carpet will help a lot. The top of the Cliff is sharp and will gnaw on unprotected rope.
I visited all the cliffs except Great Head. I think the Precipice/South Wall was head and shoulders above the rest. The climbing is exceptional and the granite a joy to smear on. Do not leave until you've climbed Old Town- one of the best 5.7's anywhere!

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#5241 - 08/04/02 03:26 AM Re: Acadia Nat'l. Park [Re: cori]
jj221 Offline
member

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 127
Loc: Morristown, NJ
The Jeff Butterfield guide book is available at all major climbing shops in Bar Harbor. IME in North Conway, NH also has copies in stock.

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#5242 - 08/06/02 06:00 PM Re: Acadia Nat'l. Park
Anonymous
Unregistered


I was there the 2nd week of July. There were no closures. Otter Cliff was great and I defintely suggest to bring a piece of carpet to protect your rope. I suggest Open Book. It is a 5.7 & a great climb. The crux is at the top. Also Razor Back is a great climb. South Wall offers many great multi-pitch leads. The rock is very impressive. The shuttle bus is a great way to get around the loop, but bringing all your gear on the bus is a pain. If you are staying at a campsite, I would suggest Blackwoods it is right on the island. Otherwise, try to camp in Bar Harbor where the shuttle bus will pick you right up and bring you to the island. To get a schedule you can go to any Acadia Info Center of go to the Bar Harbor town green where there is a info center there. Also that is the main drop off & pick up spot for all the buses. You can also buy your park pass there ($10). I forgot where I camped the last couple days. I stayed at a few places. Bar Harbor has a few campsites, all about $20/night. No Reservations necessary. I hope I helped. I have to get back to work now.

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#5243 - 08/07/02 09:54 PM Re: Acadia Nat'l. Park
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
So ... have they closed the park loop to *all* traffic except shuttle buses???

If so, what an incredible drag.

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