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#51679 - 04/27/10 10:00 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: deniso]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
ha ha, it was recommended to me as a first 5.10 gunks lead
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#51680 - 04/27/10 10:03 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Aya]
deniso Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 05/19/06
Posts: 217
I'm smiling.

How did it go?

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#51681 - 04/27/10 10:04 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: deniso]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Haven't actually gotten around to it yet, too busy climbing in the dacks!!
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#51686 - 04/28/10 05:40 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: deniso]
Daniel Online   content
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
Originally Posted By: deniso
I always smile when I hear people recommend it for a first 5.10 lead.


It was my first 5.10 lead, and I thought it was a good suggestion--but maybe that's because I onsighted it! grin

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#51692 - 04/28/10 10:47 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: deniso]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
The opening move in the corner is a potentail ankle breaker if you don't find the good nut placements. After that it really isn't bad if you just stem stem stem. Of course...yours truly got pumped silly the first time as well

RR

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#51693 - 04/28/10 10:54 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: RangerRob]
oenophore Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5981
Loc: 212 land
it really isn't bad if you just stem stem stem.

True. But it was a maximal legs-spread-as-wide-as-possible stem for me and I'm 5' 11". I'd rate it 5.9 if one can do the stems.
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#51696 - 04/28/10 10:59 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: oenophore]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I actually think it was 5.9 before the Black Dick came out, wasn't i?

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#51699 - 04/29/10 02:19 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: RangerRob]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2679
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Stemming sucks when you have hips like mine.

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#51703 - 04/29/10 03:34 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: RangerRob]
Frank Florence Online   content
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 529
Loc: moved to Bend
RR -
The Red Dick and the older Swain guide both listed Simple Suff as 5.10, so the grade has been around since 1980, at least.

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#51709 - 04/29/10 02:22 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Frank Florence]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
oops..my bad then!
I seem to recall seeing it listed somewhere as a 5.9. Oh well

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