Because of wear or age?

Cast, no?

The pins are strong, but during detructive tests long ago the the units failed at the shoulders where the pins insert. This makes sense. It is in the thin area of the relatively weaker "cam" material.

I replace the unit after about 5 years or so because the strength of the sling has likely weakened significantly. The cost of a new piece isn't much, so it simpler than having them reslung.

I just bought the little black one on a whim and placed it twice at the Gunks yesterday. Love it. The white one I can't imagine using. I imagine it would be a real pain to clean.

I am reviving this thread to note that I still love my little black tricam! I place it all the time.

I do too, tho I am told it's a pain to clean.

In support of Tricams:

Two weeks ago at the first placement on second pitch of Westward Ha. Its vertical and oddly shaped. I'm climbing with my partners rack. I haven't lead trad more than couple of days in the last year and I have butterflies (over nothing). No piece I try seems secure. I ask "Do you have any tricams" - meaning on the rack. He yells back "yeah I'll send you one up"! I didn't ask why I didn't have it with me, but we were climbing on doubles and I wasn't that far. So in very little time I had the piece popped it right in, and off I went.

I know the placement. Sort of look like the top half of an hourglass? It takes a #8 or 9 stopper perfectly. If that was your first piece you're pretty bold for just getting back into it. There is a move or two between that and the belay.

RR

Yes that placement. I remember it as the first no stress stance and not having done the route before I wanted to conserve my strength. I know I tried nuts, but I plan to do it again and will try them again.

I hadn't found my feet (in general) yet. Each (most/some?) of the moves up to slowed me down until I found the feet, then they were fine, almost easy, and I'm pretty sure I could have down climbed if I'd wanted too. Technically my first pieces were two cams we separated from the anchor. But yeah besides them, that was my first piece. Despite the butterflies I must have been fairly confident. After that I placed several solid pieces in succession before running it out a bit to the top neglecting to place a directional for my second.

I am definitely aware that it is important to prevent a high fall factor fall after a belay which is why we set up the belay as we did.

Through a combination of responsibility, desire to climb, and unfortunate location I have unintentionally become a gym rat, but after 15 years I'm still a bit of a gumby outside.

Nice job, Mark. Perhaps having to climb your way back up in order to head back home helps a bit on the bolder sections of the climb.