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#52989 - 06/27/10 03:38 AM Hawk and the 2008 Rockfall
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2320
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I had occasion to climb Hawk last week with Joe Bridges on our way to inspect and photograph this year's Trapps peregrine falcon eyrie, which is situated on a ledge just left of the massive 2008 rockfall. We used Hawk as the approach and traversed over from the top of pitch two.

At the base of Hawk you notice first, the sunlight, because all the trees at the base were taken out by the rockfall, and second, the vegetation, which is completely different from what normally grows in the shade at the base of the cliff.

The combination of sunlight and the relative absence of climbers has allowed the thin crack on the first pitch, which had been completely clean for at least the past fifty years, to become a thin vegetated line. Every ledge is densely covered with debris from the size of a computer mouse down. (Preserve rangers went up a year or so ago and trundled off all the big stuff, but the covering of smaller rocks is going to be there for a long time.)

The big ledge near the end of the first pitch (one can stop at this ledge or a higher one) has an enormous concave section that clearly took a major hit from big falling debris, and an huge white scar just under this section emphasizes the impact. Other smaller scars and some fractured rock features on the route mark other impacts.

When you get to the higher of the two ledges, you are apparently under the trajectory of the debris. The second pitch of Hawk has had no impacts and is unchanged. It appears that the corresponding second pitch of Peregrine is also untouched. The second pitch of Chimango looks ok until you get over the ceiling. The face above has some small features that have clearly been sheared off by falling debris from above. Whether this makes an appreciable difference is hard to tell by looking over from above.

The part of the cliff that fell down is extensive. The overhanging crack that formed the crux of the third pitch of Chimango is gone, although the start of that pitch is still there. The shearing above Chimango appears to have been relatively clean; there is an orange face there now without much apparent debris.

It's a completely different story to the left, where a large and, I'd say, very unstable gash exists. Below is a photo of Joe traversing over to the eyrie, which is the narrow and tightly overhung ledge just above his head. The continuous cover of debris on the ledges is visible; the rock on his traverse route is very fractured and contains many completely portable features.

I think that what looms over his head needs no further description from me. I'm no geologist, but it would be surprising to me if more of that section doesn't fall down in the next few years. I don't think I'd want to walk under there after a period of heavy rains (the event before the original rockfall) or after any winter freeze-thaw cycles. It looks like there's plenty more waiting to cut loose---judge for yourself.



The first pitch of Hawk is in the fall line. Assuming nothing comes down from that gash, the main problem is all the debris on the ledges. It takes extreme care with both footwork and rope management not to send down a shower of potentially injurious rocks. I'd say a hardhat is mandatory for the belayer.

Edit. After reading Jeff's post that follows this one, I inserted one of his images below. The yellow rectangle approximately encloses the area covered in the first photo.



Edited by rg@ofmc (06/27/10 05:42 AM)

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#52990 - 06/27/10 04:46 AM Re: Hawk and the 2008 Rockfall [Re: rg@ofmc]
Cornell Climber Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/12/04
Posts: 58
Cool picture. It actually doesn't look much worse than several other scary piles of stacked blocks at the Gunks. Which isn't to say that I'd be willing to tug on anything there.

I'm also no geologist, but my feeling is that the bands of shale significantly contribute to instability by eroding out from under the harder quartzite conglomerate. I'm pretty sure that is a band of shale at the leader's head level in RG's picture.

Back in May 2009 I got some "after" pictures of Hawk to compare with "before" pictures from 2007. I've posted them here before, but they fit so well with this thread that I thought some folks would want to see them again... http://www.jeffdeutsch.com/albums/20090501/8.html

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#52992 - 06/27/10 02:14 PM Re: Hawk and the 2008 Rockfall [Re: Cornell Climber]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
Nice report, Rich.

I have to agree with Jeff that this is far the only pile of stacked blocks in the Gunks. I remember climbing the godawful last pitch of Snake once because I wasn't about to head through the precarious death flakes of Talus of Powder, even though that's what I had climbed the first pitch of Snake to go do.

It scared me in a way that the pile-of-rocks section of Eldo's Green Spur (that is, the beginning of the roof pitch, (pitch 4 counting the pitches by the book and including the Red Ledge traverse as a pitch)) didn't.

Then there are the one that aren't so bad and that we climb routinely... every time I climb above the main roof on Bonnie's, I have the same thought: "What a magnificent pile of rocks this is."

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#52993 - 06/27/10 03:39 PM Re: Hawk and the 2008 Rockfall [Re: Steven Cherry]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2555
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Thanks Rich.

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#52997 - 06/27/10 04:50 PM Re: Hawk and the 2008 Rockfall [Re: chip]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2320
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Far be it from me to get into a dumb internet argument about whose stacked blocks are the worst stacked blocks, but I wouldn't want anyone to get the idea that this is just another pile of flakes analogous to others around the Gunks and elsewhere, because I don't think that is even remotely true.

These fractures are raw. There are many things you can touch, and the minute you do, you are holding them in your hand. They are completely detached but haven't yet been pulled off by gravity. There is stuff above Joe's head in the picture that is just balanced there---at least for the time being. A huge slab above and to his left that isn't visible in the photo is separated from the main wall and leaning outwards.

Just sayin' folks...

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#52999 - 06/27/10 05:02 PM Re: Hawk and the 2008 Rockfall [Re: rg@ofmc]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
To be sure, fresh rockfall is very different from the precarious-but-generally-stabilized chosspiles elsewhere in the Gunks.

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#53708 - 08/08/10 05:31 PM Re: Hawk and the 2008 Rockfall [Re: rg@ofmc]
Bolt_Skytop Offline
addict

Registered: 11/21/01
Posts: 420
Loc: New Paltz, New York
Rich,

If you guys were in rockfall central why isn't Joe wearing a helmet?

Al

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#53711 - 08/08/10 07:11 PM Re: Hawk and the 2008 Rockfall [Re: Bolt_Skytop]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2320
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Al, I don't know if Joe even owns a helmet.

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#53712 - 08/08/10 07:40 PM Re: Hawk and the 2008 Rockfall [Re: rg@ofmc]
Bolt_Skytop Offline
addict

Registered: 11/21/01
Posts: 420
Loc: New Paltz, New York
And clearly he didnt really need it

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