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#53224 - 07/07/10 02:25 PM Climbing in Idaho
Mim Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/27/00
Posts: 948
Loc: Gunks
Heading out to the Sawtooth Wilderness east of Boise for a week long backpacking trip in August and intend to do a couple of days of climbing before and after on the way to and fro.

Which of these areas are worth visiting?

City of Rocks
Castle Rocks
Slick Rock
Dierkes Lake

And is the highest peak, Mount Borah, worth doing as a day hike?

Thanks!!
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Mim

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#53226 - 07/07/10 02:49 PM Re: Climbing in Idaho [Re: Mim]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2025
Loc: SoCal
City of Rocks for sure. Castle is right next door, but as you probably know, only recently opened (and a section recently re-closed?). Although, in August, perhaps best avoided, really.

... but don't miss the hot springs spa near the City!

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#53228 - 07/07/10 02:58 PM Re: Climbing in Idaho [Re: Mim]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Originally Posted By: Mim
Heading out to the Sawtooth Wilderness east of Boise for a week long backpacking trip in August...

Which of these areas are worth visiting?

City of Rocks
Castle Rocks
Slick Rock
Dierkes Lake

City of Rocks and Castle Rock next door are a worthy destination for a several week climbing trip. Most excellent.

I have no knowledge of the other two.

August will still be pretty damned hot in the City, but since most of the climbing is on east and west aspects, it's pretty easy to follow the shade. If you're going on a weekend, make sure you reserve a campsite (which can be done on-line via Idaho parks and recreation - http://parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/ )
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#53240 - 07/07/10 06:23 PM Re: Climbing in Idaho [Re: MarcC]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3416
Loc: pdx
There is also fun sport (hahaha) climbing area called massacre along the snake East of boise. whoops. just asked a local...he said NFW, unless you want to climb black rock facing south in 100 degree heat. NM.

Go to the City. Or Elephant's Perch in the Sawtooths...

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#53264 - 07/08/10 11:47 AM Re: Climbing in Idaho [Re: crackers]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3629
Loc: Ulster County, NY
What's up my man Crackers! How's business, and life? When are you going to get back to NP so we can have a few beers?

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#53285 - 07/08/10 06:22 PM Re: Climbing in Idaho [Re: RangerRob]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1748
Loc: Flagstaff
Definately second/third the recommendation for City of Rocks. You'll drive out to the middle of nowhere and then keep driving. Make sure you have a good map, but the climbing is fun

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#53286 - 07/08/10 07:06 PM Re: Climbing in Idaho [Re: Chas]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Originally Posted By: Chas
Make sure you have a good map, but the climbing is fun

Also, make sure you have sufficient gear. While there are 100% bolted sport routes, even a few at the 5.7 - 5.9 level, the overall ethic of the area is to not place a bolt if trad gear will work at that spot. More than one leader has had to solo the 25' 5.9+ thin hands crack that finishes a 5.10a sport bolted face (I forget the name of the route) because all they had were draws, expecting it to be fully bolted. There's also an 11a sport route where you can hit the ground from the 10c section between bolts 2 and 3 if you don't have a 4" cam with you.
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- Marc

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#53311 - 07/09/10 04:43 PM Re: Climbing in Idaho [Re: RangerRob]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3416
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
What's up my man Crackers! How's business, and life? When are you going to get back to NP so we can have a few beers?


September. Biz is okay, a bit slow right now, but the danged trade show is less than a month away so a bit slow allows us to get ready for it. Life is good: we survived renovating our kitchen and having Tico-who-is-now-a-GUIDE!!! as a frequent house guest.

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#53312 - 07/09/10 04:47 PM Re: Climbing in Idaho [Re: MarcC]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3416
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: MarcC
More than one leader has had to solo the 25' 5.9+ thin hands crack that finishes a 5.10a sport bolted face (I forget the name of the route) because all they had were draws, expecting it to be fully bolted. There's also an 11a sport route where you can hit the ground from the 10c section between bolts 2 and 3 if you don't have a 4" cam with you.


Hi! I resemble this remark!

There are also 5.9 'sport climbs' with 5.6- for 60 feet between the bolt right off the ground and the next bolt (cheese grater?), 5.11 sport routes with 5.6 intermediate areas where a red, um, flexible stem device of dubious provenance would have been avoided the 35' runout...

Honestly, at first the ethic annoyed me, but it's really quite pleasant from today's perspective...

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